Get Across Town: South of Market
Chez Papa Resto: Coup de foudre gustatif!
By Susan Dyer Reynolds



They’re known as the “pearls of central France;” one of the most prized legumes in the world: Lentilles Vertes du Puy. They are so prized that they have been anointed with an Appellation d’Origine Contrôleé (AOC). Farmers in the Auvergne, France’s best-known lentil-producing region, wait through the long and difficult growing season and sweat profusely during the folie de la moisson, or “harvest fever,” because lentils picked too soon aren’t mature and won’t make it to market.

Introduced by the Gauls, these petite green lentils thrive in the fertile, volcanic basin of the Le-Puy-en-Velay region. Their flavor – a careful balance of minerality and fruit – is enveloped in a tender skin that doesn’t turn to mush even after slow cooking, making them a favorite of chefs around the world.
At Chez Papa Resto they use the green lentils of du Puy in a rich and soothing soup cooked with bits of carrot and potato and topped with a pesto aromatic with fresh, bright green basil. When my dining companion asked our waiter, Yannick (a charmer from the south of France), about the wondrous lentils, he aptly described them without hesitation; he knew exactly where they came from and why they were special. It is this attention to detail for something as humble as a lentil, both from the waiter and from the chef, that defines what sets Chez Papa apart.

Every now and then a restaurant comes along that grabs you and won’t let you go; everything is aligned like stars in the heavens – the food, the ambiance, the service – and it makes you want to eat there again and again. As a food writer, it’s the menu that beckons you on the rare days you’re not eating for your job. Chez Papa Resto is one of those places.

Owners Jocelyn Bulow and Marc-Henri Sempere wanted a bistro that reminded them of their childhoods spent in the south of France, where a meal was a gathering of friends and family, and the food was as comfortable as the as the company.

Executive chef David Bazirgan, who won acclaim for his work at Baraka and the first Chez Papa in Potrero Hill, and sous chef Mark Fantino, formerly of my favorite Italian restaurant in San Francisco, Vivande (located in the Northside on Fillmore Street near California), prepare rustic dishes without pretense. Though much of the menu is classic Provencal, Chez Papa is anything but old school. Dishes are lighter and more inventive – even the bouillabaisse gets a playful treatment.

John Michaud of Find created a decor that blends seamlessly with the style of the food – modern and playful, simple yet elegant. Dramatic black Murano glass chandeliers tinged with deep burgundy, some shrouded in diaphanous fabric boxes, drop from the tall black ceiling and cast a flattering diffused glow. An oversized orange banquette resembles something by artist Claus Oldenburg, splashing across the back wall, its stylized, curvy shapes peaking in the middle with a sun-like circle that meets the crystal drops of the chandeliers, dwarfing diners as if they followed Alice down the rabbit hole. Shimmering rosewood burl tabletops and captivatingly subtle wall treatments set off the dramatic bar, its back made of black granite engraved with fleurs-de-lis, and a long, antique glass communal table also set beneath gossamer-enwrapped chandeliers. The stylized darkness at dinner changes completely during the day as sunlight streams through the gauzy window curtains. On a warm afternoon, the outdoor patio on Mint Plaza can seat 88, and is often filled to capacity, even during weekday lunches.

Nearly everyone who works at Chez Papa hails from France, and mostly from the south of France, which adds to the authentic allure. In some restaurants this could be a bad thing – a very bad thing – but at Chez Papa it is a huge asset, thanks to the expert direction of general manager Andrej Oslica and manager Arnaud Giron. Hosts are well versed in welcoming patrons; servers know the food and the wine but are never snobbish, reciting the names of the dishes as only someone with that accent can. The bus staff is equally adept, clearing the dishes and filling the water on cue, but never hovering like buzzards waiting to swoop down on prey. The pace is perfection – a moment to savor before the next item comes.

Bazirgan has crafted that menu I rarely find – the one that makes me want to order everything on it. Over four visits I made a decent dent, with the help of my Shovels (big men with big appetites who come along to help with the power eating).

Lunch includes a smaller version of the starter menu, but makes up for it with dreamy tartines (open-faced sandwiches) like the boldly flavored Parma prosciutto and coppa with pungent Cambozola (a combination of French triple cream cheese and Italian blue cheese) draped on soft, just-sour-enough Acme levain ($10). If this had been my last meal, I would have died happy.

There is also a pan bagnat ($10) – a specialty of the Nice region that I always love to find – with tuna, cucumbers, olives, anchovies, peppers, egg, and mixed greens; as well as a satisfying roasted eggplant and mozzarella combination with roasted peppers, pistou (garlic, fresh basil and olive oil) and olive tapenade (a spread of olive oil, capers, black olives, and anchovies).

Snake River American Kobe beef tartare ($10) has a nice bite mixed with the traditional Dijon mustard, capers, shallots, and garlic and topped with a raw quail egg; buttery pastry cradles caramelized Cipollini onions, goat cheese, pistou, arugula, and pine nuts in a warm tart ($8); grilled Monterey sardines ($11) are dressed with shaved fennel, roasted pepper, orange slices, and fennel pollen. The most potent (and pricy) form of the herb, fennel pollen has become increasingly popular with chefs over the last several years for its heady, herbaceous aroma.

While I appreciated the haricots vert (small, slender green beans) and the lovely Meyer lemon beurre blanc, I found the pan-seared bluenose bass ($17) overcooked and dry – it was the only miss of my four visits. Grilled arctic char ($24) fared much better, cooked just medium with a crisp skin and juicy flesh. Char is a relative of salmon and trout with a taste that falls in between – milder than salmon, but more flavorful than trout. It is one of my favorite fish, both cooked and raw; the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch also rates it as a “best choice” for sustainability.

Served as an entree at lunch and a starter at dinner, a pile of tender mussels ($14) soaks in a bath of saffron, tarragon, piment d’Espelette (a mild ground chili from the Labourd province of France), and pastis (a French licorice-flavored liqueur).

The expanded dinner starter menu includes herb-crusted seared swordfish with nicoise olives (cured in brine with a nutty flavor), raisins, pine nuts, and red wine vinaigrette ($12); decadent roasted bone marrow – one of my childhood favorites – lightened with crunchy garlic croutons, fleur de sel (hand-harvested French sea salt), parsley, and shallot salad ($12); and a selection of artisan cheeses and charcuterie with delightful fig jam and walnut bread.

There are so many wonderful starters that it’s easy to make a meal sharing, but there are worthy entrees, too, such as roasted chicken breast with leg confit (meat cooked slowly in its own fat), parsnip puree, Swiss chard, and apple and cherry jus ($21).

Cubes of lamb braised with Chateauneuf-du-Pape, a wine known for matching well with lamb ($22), fall apart with just enough resistance in the daube (classic French stew). The meat melts into fresh roasted vegetables and rich gravy drizzled with rosemary oil.

Beautifully charred grilled New York steak ($25) gets a classic béarnaise sauce with herbs de Provence, accompanied by thin, crisp french fries and aioli.

I love the fact the team at Chez Papa “gets it” – in a tough economy, they’ve lowered prices about 20 percent to accommodate nervous diners who have watched their 401ks become 101ks, and they also offer a three-course prix fixe dinner for $34.95 that isn’t just for early birds like many prix fixes.
The three-course lunch prix fixe

is one of the best deals in town at $21.95. I had the soup of the day (a creamy potato leek) as a starter, the grilled arctic char (served with fingerling potatoes, wilted greens, capers, and lemon and brown butter) as my main, and refreshing orange blossom panna cotta with a tart blood orange and
port gastrique for dessert. My dining companion chose the beef tartare, grilled prawns brochettes (two generous skewers of plump, flame-licked shrimp over a salad of shaved fennel, artichoke and frisee with rosemary vinaigrette), and cocoa nib profiteroles (small pastry puff) filled with French vanilla gelato and drizzled (tableside by the server) with warm chocolate sauce.

Wine director George Aknin has compiled a distinctive list with over 150 selections, of which 23 are available by the glass. He focuses on food-compatible wines (think Syrah and Riesling). There is also a full bar cranking out creative cocktails (some of the best I’ve seen in this mixology-crazed city) like the Lady Macbeth – Champagne topped with port. Chez Papa also offers pastis service – water with a spirit in a suggested ratio of one to five with a few ice cubes on the side – and Absinthe, a strong herbal liquor made with wormwood, banned in the U.S. since 1912 and reintroduced several years ago (thanks to local master distiller Lance Winters).

After a memorable dinner visit, I asked Yannick (our server for two of the four visits) how you would say “love at first bite” in the south of France. He thought about it out loud – it had to do with lightning – and then said, “coup de foudre gustatif.” I couldn’t have said it better myself.

Chez Papa Resto: 4 Mint Plaza (formerly Jessie Street, between Mission and Market near the Fifth Street Garage), Mon.–Sat. lunch from 11.30 a.m. & dinner from 5:30 p.m., 415-546-4134, www.chezpapasf.com.


THREE DIAMONDS

AMBIANCE
A memorable meal in the middle of Provence.

SOUND LEVEL
Dropped, floated ceilings help to absorb some of the sound. At lunchtime it can be quiet enough for an intimate conversation, at dinner occasionally boisterous but manageable compared to most restaurants today.

LIGHT LEVEL
Bring your Mini Maglite – it’s dark and the typeface on the menu is small.

NOT TO MISS DISHES
Coppa and prosciutto tartine, lentil soup, mussels, fumet bouillabaisse, lavender-salted lamb chops.

WHAT THE DIAMONDS MEAN
Ratings range from zero to four diamonds and reflect food, atmosphere and service, taking price range and style of the restaurant into consideration.

OUR REVIEW POLICY
We conduct multiple visits anonymously and pay our own tab.

E-mail: susan@northsidesf.com