Northside SF
From Grandpa Lorenzo's Kitchen
Light summer pasta recipes from Grandpa Lorenzo



Pasta al limone
When people think of summer, pasta doesn’t usually come to mind, but pasta doesn’t have to be rich or meat-laden to be satisfying. I have fond memories of helping my Grandpa Lorenzo pick juicy, ripe cherry tomatoes and plump, fragrant Meyer lemons from his garden during hot, lazy August weekends. I loved his pasta al limone: a bright, tart dish made with those fresh, sweet Meyer lemons, garlic, parsley, and olive oil – the sauce is a cold sauce, which makes this recipe a snap to throw together for parties. Grandpa

Lorenzo also made fresh mozzarella, which he used often in his pasta alla Caprese along with cherry tomatoes, fresh basil and olive oil. When we were really lucky, he made it with homemade burrata – a mozzarella shell filled with a luxurious mixture of heavy cream and fine strands of mozzarella curds called stracciatella (“little rags”) that produce a runny, decadent center.

These days you can find fresh mozzarella and burrata at most grocery stores, but if you want to make your own, there are many recipes and step-by-step instructions available on the Web, and you can even take a hands-on class at the Cheese School of San Francisco on Aug. 24 (for details, see “August Happenings,” page 9). For the pasta, I use capellini – basically skinny spaghetti – for both recipes, just like Grandpa Lorenzo did, but you can substitute any pasta you have in your pantry.

Grandpa Lorenzo’s Pasta al Limone
Serves 4-6

1  pound capellini pasta
1  clove garlic
2  lemons, preferably Meyer variety (zest of 1 lemon, juice of 2 lemons)
5  tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
    Salt to taste
1  cup finely grated Parmigiano cheese, plus extra for sprinkling
1  bunch fresh, flat-leaf (Italian) parsley, leaves picked and chopped

Place the pasta in a pot of boiling, salted water and stir immediately to prevent from sticking together. Cook to al dente (firm but not hard). Cut the garlic in half and rub the exposed area along the interior of a large serving bowl so the raw garlic flavor coats the inside surface. Discard the garlic. Add the freshly squeezed lemon juice and slowly drizzle in extra-virgin olive oil while whisking until the ingredients have emulsified. Mix in salt to taste and Parmigiano cheese. Drain and add the pasta to the serving bowl. Mix the pasta with the lemon sauce to coat evenly. Sprinkle with Parmigiano cheese, fresh parsley and lemon zest. Serve immediately.

Grandpa Lorenzo’s Pasta alla Caprese

Serves 4-6

1  pound capellini pasta
3  tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2  cloves garlic, minced
3  cups cherry tomatoes, halved or quartered
    Salt to taste
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ cup (packed) fresh basil leaves, torn
8  ounces fresh mozzarella or burrata, diced
    (Note – if using burrata, chill well beforehand to make dicing easier)

Place the pasta in a pot of boiling salted water and stir immediately to prevent from sticking together. Cook to al dente (firm but not hard). Drain pasta into a large bowl and reserve ½ cup of the cooking liquid. In a medium skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, salt, and pepper. As tomatoes soften, smash with a wooden spoon or a fork. Cook until the tomatoes create a chunky style sauce (4 to 5 minutes). Transfer the tomato sauce to the bowl with the pasta and toss until pasta is thoroughly coated. Add the basil leaves and mozzarella; stir to combine. Add the reserved pasta water, a little at a time, until everything is moistened to your liking but not watery (there should not be a pool of sauce in the bottom of the bowl). Serve immediately.

E-mail: susan@northsidesf.com


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