The Inquisitive Traveler
Head south
By Patty Burness
Photos by Patty Burness

If you’re looking to get away from the hustle (and fog) in the City, then take a couple of days and head south to Paso Robles. The drive is just over three hours and the benefits are huge. Gorgeous vistas. Verdant hillsides. Delicious wines. Farm-fresh ingredients. Exciting cuisine. The people are friendly and the vibe is totally laid back. Recently, a colleague and I escaped for a girlfriend getaway and discovered the treasures for ourselves.

Even though our itinerary focused mainly on wine — this area is one of the rising stars on the wine scene  — we began our visit at the Mt. Olive Organic Farm, just west of Highway 101. On 700 acres of forestland, over 150 acres of fruits, vegetables, herbs, and flowers are grown and cattle and chicken are raised. Everything is for sale: delicious homemade jams, sauces, salsas, breads, and olive oils. Sample the organic products in their store and enjoy lunch made from ingredients freshly picked in the garden. You can even take home worms for composting!

We continued on the windy road west into the rolling hills and the “far out” wineries. Nestled in the Santa Lucia Mountains near the Pacific Ocean, they’re a bit off the beaten track where limestone is a unique aspect of the terroir. Paso Robles is known for its red wines, but it was the Roussanne Grenache Blanc that grabbed us. We visited in April when the temperatures soared into the 90s and this Rhone-style white hit the spot. We were first introduced to it at Adelaida Cellars.

The winery and tasting room are 2,000 feet above sea level. The hills are farmed from the top; no terraces here. We tasted Adelaida’s 2006 Version (Rhone white) — it’s fruity, dry, crisp, and ready to drink. Most of the wines are from single estates. Don’t miss the Pinot, Syrah and Cabernet. Before you leave, ask to be driven to the top of the ridge for nonstop views.
Next up: Tablas Creek Vineyards. With the vines imported from Beaucastel, France, this winery helped create the regional focus on Rhone wines. The vineyard is farmed organically and all grapes are estate grown. The owners use the popular Mourvedre grape, and of course Roussanne, in their rich and balanced signature Esprit de Beaucastel wines.

We ended the day at the Just Inn, owned and operated by the Justin Winery folks. The setting is idyllic  — beautiful buildings in lush gardens surrounded by vineyards. We entered the private gates of the owners’ complex to an amazing apartment over the winery’s fermentation and storage areas. Known as the Bordeaux Suite, it’s spacious, private and beautifully decorated with vibrant colors. After a quick change of clothes, we headed back to the main property for dinner in Deborah’s Room.
  
Named after one of the owners, the cozy and intimate restaurant is tucked away in a corner of the reception/wine tasting building. The creative five-course menu uses only the freshest ingredients  — the perfect platform to try Justin wines. The winery is credited with the first Bordeaux-style blends made from Central Coast estate vineyards, and is known for their Isosceles. The bright fruits are unmistakable — wild cherry, cassis and raspberry. We also tried the 2006 Reserve Tempranillo with cheese, and found the chocolate and fruit of the 2007 Obtuse (Cabernet Port) great with dessert.
  
Early the next morning, we awoke to winery activity  — bottles clanked along the conveyor, forklifts hummed, and workers buzzed as they got about their business. Deborah’s Room offered breakfast of poppy seed muffins (warm from the oven) and a luscious bread pudding with black raspberries and syrup dripping all over. It was easy to linger, but more wine tasting awaited.
  
On the way to downtown Paso Robles, we made a quick stop at Linne Calodo winery: The name is Spanish for “calcium mud” and describes the characteristic limestone soils. We stood just outside the tasting room (under construction) and sampled several wines. The full-bodied texture and fruits of the 2006 Nemesis (Rhone blend) and the 2006 Cherry Red (Zinfandel) were among the blended favorites.
  
Paso Robles was only 15 minutes away. Rebuilt after the 1903 earthquake, this is a friendly and down-to-earth place with a mix of young and old, ranchers and vintners. We checked into Hotel Cheval, an upscale country inn in the middle of downtown.
  
Cheval means “horse” in French and an equestrian theme predominates — the Pony Club has a horseshoe-shaped bar, the 16 rooms are named after famous racehorses, and a shoofly is the “do not disturb” sign. The luxe rooms surround a stone courtyard filled with foliage and an outdoor fireplace ablaze in the evening. There’s even a library for guests, but no time to read — we were off to see the town and taste more wine.
  
It’s a quick walk across the downtown park to interesting shops and the downtown winery trail. We browsed Reminisce Antiques, Firefly and Your Intentions, and settled in at Clayhouse Wines. Be sure to try their blends from their Red Cedar Vineyard near Paso: the 2006 Adobe Red, mostly Zinfandel with Syrah, Petit Sirah and Malbec, and the 2005 Estate Hillside Cuvee, a Bordeaux-style blend of Petite Verdot, Cabernet and Malbec.
  
Just before dinner, we relaxed at the Pony Club with a glass of a 2007 Denner Theresa blend of Viognier and Roussanne and a plate of yummy cheeses and salumi. Next up: Artisan for dinner.
  
This casual bistro is a family affair — the Kobayashi brothers and their wives handle every aspect of this dynamic restaurant. Local ingredients are combined to make for one incredibly delicious experience. We started with a Cayucos red abalone “BLTA” with fried green tomatoes and pancetta, followed by a wild Alaskan halibut served with Maine lobster ravioli. And we splurged with the pasture-raised veal strip loin, asparagus risotto, hen of the woods mushrooms, gremolata, and Madeira. Our choice of the 2006 Anglim Cameo — a blend of Marsanne, Roussane and Viognier — worked with each dish. We had a strawberry mascarpone tart for dessert, but choose anything from the seasonal menu and you won’t be disappointed.
  
The stroll back to Hotel Cheval was a welcome one. And after a great night’s sleep, a tray of coffee, fresh fruit and pastries waited just outside the door.
  
Paso Robles is an up-and-coming destination with lots to explore. You’ll find amazing wines, exceptional products, wonderful food, and great people. If you’re looking for a trip not too far from the Northside, this is the spot.

ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE
Paso Robles, Calif.: just over three hours south of San Francisco on Highway 101. Tourist Information:  www.prcity.com, www.pasowine.com, www.pasorobleschamber.com.

WHERE TO STAY
Just Inn: 11680 Chimney Rock Road, 805-238-6932 ext. 300, www.justinwine.com. Suites $375–$395.
Hotel Cheval: 1021 Pine Street, 866-522-6999, www.hotelcheval.com. Rooms from $275 May–October.

WHERE TO EAT
Deborah’s Room: 11680 Chimney Rock Road, 805-238-6932 ext. 300, www.justinwine.com. Five-course dinner $90, wine pairing $45.
Artisan: 1401 Park Street, 805-237-8084, www.artisanpasorobles.com. Starters from $12, main courses from $24, desserts $9, wines by the glass from $6.50.

DON’T MISS
Mt. Olive Organic Farm: 3445 Adelaida Road, 805-237-0147, www.mtoliveco.com.
Visit the online store for all their tasty treats and organic gardening and composting products.
Note: wine club members taste for free at all the wineries below.
Adelaida Cellars: 5805 Adelaida Road, 800-676-1234, www.adelaida.com. Tasting fee $10.
Tablas Creek Vineyard: 9339 Adelaida Road, 805-237-1231, www.tablascreek.com. Tasting fee $10 (glass included), refunded with wine purchase.
Justin Vineyards & Winery: 11680 Chimney Rock Road, 800-726-0049, www.justinwine.com. Regular flight $5, additional reserve wines $5 (glass included).
Linne Calodo: 3030 Vineyard Drive, 805-227-0797, www.linnecalodo.com. Tasting fee $10.
Clayhouse Wines: 849 13th Street, 800-403-6107, www.clayhousewines.com. Tasting fee $5, refunded with wine purchase.
The Pony Club: 1021 Pine Street, 866-522-6999, www.hotelcheval.com. Wines by the glass from $8, Pony Club Signature Plate $12, hot buffet breakfast for hotel guests on weekends.