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A thinly veiled ploy ...

Written by Bill Knutson, The Kitchenless Cook

Friday, 30 September 2005

When I first heard of Luella, all anybody could talk about was the beef Wellington. But, when I went for the first time a couple of months ago, I was heartbroken to find out that chef Ben DeVries had taken it off the menu. After the meal, I asked Ben if it would ever come back and he hesitated to answer, as if he been asked this question too many times. “It will probably come back sometime in the fall or winter, when the weather gets cooler (he does realize he lives in San Francisco, right?), and people are looking for heartier foods,” said Ben, very noncommitted. At this point, I asked if he would be willing to share his recipe for this culinary classic with my readers, hoping silently this would encourage him to bring it back sooner. I am pleased to say that my thinly veiled ploy to get the Wellington back on the menu has worked: not only do you get the recipe here, but it will be back on the menu by the time this is printed. He also shared the recipe for his version of the Yorkshire pudding he will be serving with the Wellington. Cooking with Ben was a pleasure, and seeing how he makes something as complex and rich as beef Wellington seem so easy to make is a wonder. His fascination with using bone marrow to enhance the flavors of the meat is a reward for all of us. I have clear recollections of sucking the little gem of marrow out of bones from my childhood. When I asked if there was a suitable substitute for the marrow in the recipe, he looked at me quizzically as if to say, “You’ve got to be kidding.” I was only concerned for people who don’t have a connection at Niman Ranch. But, upon further research, I found that it is available for special order at most meat markets, even Safeway. I want to thank Ben for his time and the delicious dish, but mostly for being a willing victim to my little culinary plot. I look forward to cooking with him again. Beef Wellington 2 5 1/2-ounce filet mignons 2 sheets of puff pastry 1 egg 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil 1/2 tablespoon butter 2 tablespoons bone marrow 1 tablespoon bread crumbs 1 tablespoon fi nely chopped parsley 1 tablespoon fi nely chopped shallots salt pepper Lay out pastry sheets on top of each other. When still slightly frozen, cut four 6-inch circles. Cut out a 4-inch circle from the middle of two of the larger circles. Place the 6-inch rings you just created on top of the other circles. Mix the egg with 2 teaspoons of water and brush over the tops of the pastries and sprinkle with salt. Lay the two 4-inch circles and the two 6-inch circles of pastry on a cookie sheet and bake at 450 degrees for 8-10 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from oven. Salt and pepper the steaks. In a skillet, heat the oil and butter. Sear the steaks over medium heat. Combine bone marrow, bread crumbs, parsley and shallots. Remove the center cap of dough from the 6- inch pastries, spoon in 1 tablespoon of bone marrow mixture. Place steak on top of mixture and spread 1 tablespoon of mixture over the top. Return the pastries to the oven until marrow mixture is completely melted. Melt remaining bone marrow mixture in a pan. Drizzle plates with horseradish sauce (see below) and melted marrow and place Wellingtons in the middle with smaller pastries as the cap. Serves 2. Horseradish Sauce 2 tablespoons prepared horseradish 2 tablespoons sour cream Combine ingredients and refrigerate for at least one hour. Yorkshire Pudding 1 egg 1/8 cup of melted butter 1/2 cup of milk 1/4 cup of flour 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon beer 6 tablespoons lard In a blender mix milk and salt. While blending, add the following ingredients one at a time: flour, egg, butter and beer. Blend for one minute or until the consistency of heavy cream. Let sit refrigerated for a half hour. Fill small ramekins (about 1.5-inch diameter) halfway with lard and place in oven at 450 degrees until lard is fully heated. Remove from oven and fill with batter mixture until slightly overflowing. Return to oven for 10-12 minutes or until browned. Remove from ramekins and serve. Cheers, Bill If you have a favorite chef you’d like to see Bill cook with or a favorite recipe you’d like to see him make with the chef, write to bill@northsidesf.

Last Updated ( Friday, 24 November 2006 )