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Home arrow Food & Wine arrow Food Wine 2005 arrow Newly Notable: Cheesesteaks from Philly and Home cooking come to the Marina
Newly Notable: Cheesesteaks from Philly and Home cooking come to the Marina PDF Print E-mail
Written by Susan Dyer Reynolds, Northside Editor   
Sunday, 31 July 2005
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Philly native Jake Gillis serves the real deal at Jake's Steaks. Photo by Elizabeth Armstrong
You know it’s a good sign when half the people at a cheesesteak joint are from Philly – die-hards are flocking to fellow Philadelphian Jake Gillis’s place, Jake’s Steaks, for the sandwich they miss most: sliced rib eye grilled up with onions, topped with authentic Cheez Whiz and loaded into a soft Amoroso roll. Steve Silliphant, on vacation from the City of Brotherly Love with buddy John Farkas, paid Jake a hefty compliment: “We just ate at Pat’s a few days ago, and this is just as good.” Pat’s, along with across-the-street-competitor Geno’s, makes the most famous and arguably the best cheesesteaks in Philadelphia. The guys stopped by after meeting Jake’s friend, Matt Anderson, at the Horseshoe. Matt hadn’t missed one of Jake’s Steaks since he arrived from Philly 12 days ago. “My luggage is in the back room here,” he smiled. “I’m going back to Philadelphia to get off of cheesesteaks.” You can also munch some decadent chili cheese waffle fries and cool off with Philly-imported water ice for dessert. Or you can pretend to be healthy with a cheesesteak salad – greens tossed with fat-free balsamic vinaigrette topped with steak and white American cheese. For weekend brunch, check out another Philly favorite: “We’re serving scrapple,” Jake says with hometown pride, “It’s made out of everything not fit for a hot dog…” And they deliver! Jake’s Steaks: 3301 Buchanan Street near Chestnut. (415) 922-2211.

When Home opened on Market Street serving well-priced cut-above comfort food in an upscale setting, everyone shook their heads in wonderment: why hadn’t anyone thought of this before? Now fans of the concept have a second Home in the remodeled space that housed Cafe de Paris L’Entrecote for nearly 30 years. The restaurant, which maintains L’Entrecote’s long, slim interior, has been updated with buttery walls, a hefty bar and bright red banquettes. You can still people–watch along Union Street or soak up the sun in the familiar atrium, and heat lamps out front provide opportunity for dining al fresco even on chilly summer evenings. The menu reflects the Marina crowd – a mix of families, business associates and pre-bar hoppers – shifting from pure comfort to healthier, more contemporary cuisine that offers organic produce, wild-caught fish and humanely raised meats and poultry. Executive chef Jeff Banker honed his chops at Acme with Traci Des Jardins and also did stints at Postrio, Bix and the three-star Lucas Carton in Paris. His eclectic background serves him well on diverse dishes like Moroccan braised lamb shank with almond and currant couscous, grilled wild salmon with corn and roasted pepper relish and the Home classic rich, gooey macaroni and cheese. Torn butter lettuce salad with blue cheese and spicy pepitas in tart red wine vinaigrette makes a snappy starter, while tender Niman Ranch pot roast and an earthy wild mushroom pappardelle were entr&eacutee highlights. Former Gary Danko wine director Christie Dufault devised the California-focused list. Home: 2032 Union Street at Buchanan. (415) 931-5006.

A lot of trendy venues seem confused as to what they want to be when they grow up – lounge, or restaurant. Impala, from the folks at Mas Sake and Suite 181, is one of those venues, but if they solve the identity crisis, the place has potential. The cavernous former home of Jitney’s and the Black Cat has a dark cool vibe enhanced by wrought iron, red candlelight, mirrored ceilings and faux-suede corseted chairs laced up the back with red and black ribbons. A black curtain over an arch above the bottle cap-encrusted bar parts Oz-like to reveal a DJ, who warms up the crowd as they sample from a list of nearly 50 tequilas before partying in the bottle room downstairs. The menu was created by “rock ‘n’ roll chef” Kerry Simon, who has traveled the world opening restaurants for Jean-Georges Vongerichten and recently won a battle on Iron Chef America. It is well-executed by talented partner-chef Alan Kwan and features health-conscious Mexican dishes like a standout albondigas soup scented with coriander and full of light, moist chicken meatballs. The jalapeño rellenos are a mini take on the classic – filled with queso fresco, the little peppers pack a punch and washed down nicely with a pomegranate margarita. Kabuto pork shoulder slow-roasted on a bed of pineapple is tender and tasty, but the not-to-miss-dish is the whole Thai snapper – head-on so you can fight over the prized cheeks – grilled over a wood fire and served simply with lime-chili salt. Impala: 501 Broadway at Kearny. (415) 982-5299.

Grant Avenue near Green Street, the cutest block in North Beach, provides the perfect setting for the charming Blanca Café. Owner Tanya Ristau, who lived and studied in Spain, wanted to bring authentic Andalucian bistro fare to a comfy spot that catered to the neighborhood, and it seems to be working – the mostly local crowd happily sips sangria, munches on bocadillos and revels in the fact they don’t have to shout to hold a conversation. Tall red Naugahyde booths and low-hung sconces enhance the intimacy while large windows in the front offer more outgoing diners a chance to people-watch. The simple menu includes traditional tapas like tomato salad, marinated olives, and tortilla de patatas – a fluffy mix of potatoes, eggs and roasted red peppers resembling a cheeseless quiche. The meat and cheese plates are reasonably priced and ideal for nibbling between sips of Spanish wine. Bocadillos come on soft fresh-baked bread with a crunchy crust and range from veggie to chorizo to chicken, but the jam&oacuten is the star – robust Serrano ham, Manchego cheese, fresh tomatoes and red onions topped with crisp red leaf lettuce and spicy chipotle aioli. Blanca Café: 1441 Grant Street near Union. (415) 291-9944.
Last Updated ( Saturday, 19 January 2008 )