After two decades of working in Northern California restaurants like Oliveto, Oakland native Glenn “Gator” Thompson decided it was time to hit the road. He headed south to explore his family’s Louisiana roots, eating his way with a vengeance through the soul food capitals of the world in preparation for his next venture, a place of his own. Unfortunately, the trip landed him in the hospital – food cooked the old-fashioned way (lots of butter, lots of lard) led to extra poundage and bypass surgery. Many lost pounds later, Thompson opened Gator’s Neo-Soul Café, tweaking his family recipes by adding the freshest California ingredients, and cutting the fat to create a culinary oxymoron – a healthful haven for lovers of southern cuisine.
   

Everyone knows I’m a fried chicken fanatic, so I was skeptical of Aunt Gertie Bea’s version – a Fulton Valley bird soaked in buttermilk, flour-coated, pan-fried in olive oil and then finished in the oven – but I loved every crunchy, juicy morsel, along with the side of “no guilt” that accompanied it. Big Mama’s braised Niman Ranch beef oxtails, a heaping portion, had a velvety texture and melted off the bone. Uncle Willie’s tender oven-roasted Niman Ranch center cut pork loin was full of flavor, as was the side of sweet potato grits. Gargantuan shrimp simmered in spicy, herbed butter sauce, and slathered over a bed of fluffy grits were also a hit.
   

With live music pumping and a friendly staff along for the ride, Gator’s is a great place to take the entire family, go on a date, or meet some friends. Throw in a nice wine list and my favorite beverage on the menu, Hank’s Gourmet Root Beer (no high fructose corn syrup in this one), and I’m already hankerin’ to head back down south.
   

Gator’s Neo-Soul Café: 129 S. B St. (at 1st); dinner Tue.-Sun. from 5 p.m.; 650-685-8100, www.gatorsneosoul.com

– S. Reynolds