In my opinion, anyone pooh-poohing Fisherman’s Wharf isn’t a true San Franciscan. Many of the City’s economic success stories sprung from its Gold Rush days, including Levi Strauss, Ghirardelli, Boudin, Del Monte, and Wells Fargo. You won’t find sourdough bread or Dungeness crab any fresher, and the views of the iconic Golden Gate Bridge and our beautiful bay are unparalleled.

I’ve known the Geraldi family since I was in diapers – I have fond memories of stealing bites of my father’s calamari steak doré as we dined by the brightly painted Venetian mooring poles lining the downstairs tables of Fishermen’s Grotto #9. The Grotto is an institution – opened in 1935 by Mike Geraldi Sr., it was the first sit-down restaurant on the wharf. Passed down through the generations, grandson Mike Geraldi – one of the nicest, most down-to-earth gentlemen you’ll ever meet – now runs it with nary a change.

When I want to take in the City’s best views over a classic crab Louie, I always head to the upstairs dining room at the Grotto – it’s the only place I’ve found where you have to dig through the crab to find the lettuce. Over half a pound of fresh-picked native crustacean (including meaty legs) is piled on a bed of crisp iceberg lettuce, and garnished with hard-boiled egg, tomato, black olives, and beets cut into little stars. My ritual begins with a squeeze of fresh lemon over the crabmeat followed by a generous drizzle of the rich and thick, sweet and tangy dressing. At $27, this Louie is also a deal – it can easily feed two as an entrée or three to four as a starter. Add a cup of creamy clam chowder and a few slices of complimentary crunchy sourdough slathered in soft butter, and you’ve got a satisfying San Francisco treat. There is, however, one very UN-San Francisco thing about it – three hours of free parking right next door.

Fishermen’s Grotto #9: 2847 Taylor St. (at Fisherman’s Wharf); Sun-Fri. 10a.m.-10p.m., Sat. 10a.m.-11p.m.; 415-673-7025, www.fishermensgrotto.com

– S. Reynolds