My answer to this query is usually a resounding “Yes!” I have long held the belief that the best wine for any meal is the one that tastes best to you. And as a cook who enjoys experimenting with flavor combinations, many times with items that do not seem well-suited for each other, I often enjoy pairing wines that provide a pleasant contrast to the dish. Perhaps try a Pinot with your petrale sole, or a Sauterne with your steak? I am not saying that every combination will work for everybody. You will have to have an open mind and a deep wine cellar. 
   

The same holds true when cooking with wine. I am asked frequently at my store for a “good cooking wine.” I want to point to the whole aisle and say they are all good. But in the interest of customer service, I refrain from my smart-aleck comment and politely ask, “What are you cooking?” To which the common reply is, “chicken” or “beef.” This does not help me in the quest for a perfect fit. I then proceed with my follow-up questions, “How are you going to prepare the chicken (or beef)?” or “Do you have the recipe with you?” Sheepishly, the customer hands over the computer printed recipe of Emeril’s latest classic from the Food Network Web site. I scan the ingredient list, and there it is in black and white, dry white wine (or red). Just by the nature of the fermentation process, the majority of wines are considered dry. Even traditionally sweet wines like Gewürztraminer and Johannesburg Riesling are now being made dry. So how do you find the right wine for your recipe?
   

At this point, I want to go back to the first rule of cooking with wine, and follow up with my addendum to that rule that will assist you next time you need to find dry white wine.        
   

Rule #1: Always cook with a wine you are willing to drink. I find this a helpful rule because you will rarely use the whole bottle for cooking, so you should be prepared not to waste it.
   

Bill’s addendum to Rule #1: Cook with the wine you plan to serve with the dish. Not only do you solve the waste issue, but also you will also greatly improve the likelihood your wine will pair well with your dish.
   

For my two recipes this month, I used the same main ingredients, game hen and wine, but one was cooked with white and the other red. I wanted to show the impact of the different wines by using different cooking methods, and in both cases, the wine acts as a tenderizer. For the white wine game hens, I used the wine as a marinade to help infuse the flavors of the seasonings and then grilled the birds. I used a Sauvignon Blanc from Wildhurst Vineyards, Lake County, for this recipe. Sauvignon Blanc is my preferred choice of white wine when I am cooking, especially for seafood or poultry. It usually lends a nice citrus flavor to the dish, but does not over power the flavor of the meat.
   

For the other recipe, I wanted the flavor of the wine to make a statement, so I braised the hen in red wine. This infused not just the flavor, but also the color of the wine into the bird. When cooking with reds, I usually lean toward using a blend. The winemakers will blend the flavors of several varietals to make a smooth, easy-to-drink wine that is ready for your table right now, hence the term, “table wine.” For this recipe, I used Ménage à Trois from Folie à Deux in Napa, a blend of three of my favorite varietals, Zinfandel, Merlot and Cabernet.

White Wine Game Hens

    1    game hen, split in half
    1    cup dry white wine (oops, I
        mean Sauvignon Blanc)
    1    tablespoon olive oil
    1    tablespoon rosemary leaves
    2    teaspoons thyme
    1    teaspoon ground sage
    1     teaspoon fresh ground black
        pepper
    2    teaspoons salt

   

Rinse game hen and place in resealable bag. Combine herbs and spices and sprinkle over the bird. Add wine and oil and seal the bag. Refrigerate for at least one hour and up to overnight. Grill directly over medium heat, skin side up for 25 minutes. Turn over and grill until skin is a rich, golden brown, approximately 20-25 minutes. Serve and enjoy.

Red Wine Game Hens

    1    game hen, split in half
    2    tablespoons olive oil
    2    cups red table wine
    1    sweet onion
    1    red bell pepper
    1    yellow bell pepper
    2    tablespoons fresh chopped
        basil
    2    teaspoons fresh ground
        black pepper
    2    teaspoons salt

   

In a large saucepan, heat olive oil over medium high heat. Add the hens, skin side down first and brown about 5 minutes each side. Slice onions and peppers into ½-inch strips and add to the pan. Cook for 5 minutes and add wine, basil, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and reduce heat. Cover and simmer for 20 minutes. Gently turn over hens and simmer another 20 minutes. Carefully remove from pan, serve and enjoy.

Cheers,
Bill

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