It was a beautiful Sunday morning – ideal for the Napa Valley. The drive from the Northside was easy, alluring and quick. My husband and I were ready to take advantage of all that laid-back Calistoga has to offer – hot springs and mud baths, delicious wines, garden-fresh ingredients, one of the most classic retro motels around. And a castle. Medieval Italy, meet the nifty ’50s.
   

Castello di Amorosa (Castle of Love) is quite the structure, but knowing that Daryl Sattui built it, explains everything. Nothing this tall, lanky man does is either small scale or orthodox. The 121,000-square-foot, 107-room castle and winery were completed last year after taking almost 14 to build. They boast escape tunnels, secret passages, a torture chamber, and three prison cells. That is, of course, in addition to the church, stone towers, tasting rooms, and a Great Hall with frescoes on the walls and ceiling. There’s even a moat and a drawbridge – it is a fortress after all. All the materials are either from Napa or crafted in Italy then reassembled on site, the same way it was done in medieval times – authenticity drives Daryl Sattui.
   

Castello di Amorosa stands as a tribute to Daryl’s heritage. His great-grandfather, Vittorio, was an Italian immigrant making wine in San Francisco in 1885 until Prohibition closed him down. What better backdrop could there be for producing Italian-style wines in the Diamond Mountain appellation? Daryl is after small quantities with intense flavor and texture that make his wines the perfect accompaniment to food. Descending to the vault-like stone area underground, it was time to taste.
   

Eager for the Italian-style wines, we began with the 2005 Pinot Grigio Napa Valley – fruity with a pungent citrus aroma and melon, fig and olive flavors. The 2005 Gioia Rosato di Sangiovese is a delicious Italian-style rosé with a wonderful spice and berry nose. If you like super-Tuscans, try the 2003 La Castellana, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese. It’s big, bold and beautiful. And to accompany desserts, the Muscato Canelli (2005 Il Raggio del Sole “Ray of Sun”) combines ripe stone fruit and sweet floral aromas.
   

Climbing the stairs back toward sunlight, it was time to leave our slice of Italian heaven. It’s good to know we don’t need a plane ticket or passport to return. We were now ready for a change of pace. Nothing like hot springs and warm mud baths to soothe the body and soul.
   

John (“Doc”) and Edy Wilkinson opened their infamous Dr. Wilkinson’s Hot Springs Resort in 1952. Calistoga was named “Colaynomo” (oven place) by the Wappo Indians because of the geothermal waters. It was Calistoga’s natural hot springs that first attracted the Wilkinsons, because Doc was a chiropractor who favored alternative health therapies. My husband and I checked in to experience “The Works” and stay overnight. Time stands still here. Everything remains almost the same in 2008 at this family-owned resort as it was in the 1950s – from the many spa treatments to the original neon sign – except now Doc’s children run the place.
   

Sinking into the warm and gooey mud for the first time is interesting. Inch your way down a wooden board into the tub filled with local volcanic ash, imported peat moss and clay mixed with water from the hot springs. The smell of sulfur can be a little off-putting, but don’t let that stop you. An attendant makes sure you are covered to your chin, places cucumbers on your eyes, a mud mask on your face and leaves you to cook. The combination of the weight of the mud and the warmth is enough to instantly loosen you up. That is, until you get too hot, then just pull your arms or legs out to air. Don’t worry about sinking in like quicksand and not being able to emerge – the peat keeps the mud buoyant. Showering in the spring-fed water 15 minutes later requires some amount of energy to get all of the mud off. But it was worth the work – a claw-foot soaking tub filled with more warm spring water was waiting.
   

Settling in was delightful. My body melted as the mineral water gurgled away. Eventually, I was brought back from dreamland and escorted to the steam room. The steam’s heat and natural waters opened my pores and allowed me to sweat out any toxins that dared to remain after all of my cleansings. Next, a blanket wrap cooled me down before a 30-minute massage. By the time my masseuse had kneaded every inch of my body, I was over the top and could barely walk. But not to worry, I wasn’t going far – only to the pool to lounge away the rest of the afternoon. I found my husband who was equally as numb. He proclaimed it the best massage ever.
   

Once we regained consciousness, we decided to stroll down Lincoln Avenue, Calistoga’s bucolic main drag. We ambled past the usual array of shops for browsing, art galleries and of course, numerous places to eat. For dinner, we chose All Seasons, a bistro, wine shop (with over 400 selections and underground cellar) and catering operation rolled into one. It feels like an exotic locale with the bright colors, the Spanish guitar music and ceiling fans. Taking a window seat, we watched the world go by as we feasted from the seasonal menu. We began our culinary adventure with a NV Schramsberg Mirabelle Brut – sparkling is always the perfect opener.
   

Owners Gayle Keller and Alex Dierkhising have been in the restaurant business for 32 years – 24 of them in Calistoga. Not only are they extraordinarily engaging, but they know where to source the best of the best locally. They have been recognized by Wine Spectator, Zagat – even Michelin. The USDA registered them as a dairy (the smallest in the nation), so their house-made ice cream is the real thing, but more on that later.
   

Our first taste was a luscious lobster bisque with truffle oil. Cayenne pepper is the secret ingredient that literally makes this a mouth-watering experience. Locally grown arugula, asparagus, roasted beets, and shaved fennel followed, kicked up with a sherry vinaigrette. They were paired with a 2005 McManis Viognier from Lodi, pleasantly rich with apricot, pear and melon flavors. The seared diver scallops were sweet and tender, served with a lemon butter and accompanied by an assortment of English peas, fava beans and broccolini. A pheasant duo (seared breast and leg confit) in pan juices and a 2005 McManis Petite Sirah made the perfect finish to the meal – except, of course, for the ice cream.
   

The warm, dark chocolate torte made with chocolate ice cream is off the charts. (It is officially “house made” because the equipment and ingredients are USDA-inspected.) Cherries are steeped in balsamic and a red wine reduction before being added to the ice cream. The result is rich, creamy, luscious. With a 1999 Selvapiana Vin Santo, we were sated – and happy. Luckily, we only had a couple of blocks to walk back to our room.
   

Dr. Wilkinson’s really is a throw back to the 1950s – the neon sign, the rooms – it’s straightforward and simple. After a memorable day, who needs anything else? After dinner, we were so relaxed, we fit right into Calistoga’s culture. Our choice for 24 hours of enjoyment was ideal. Try it.
   
Essentials

Calistoga: Located at the top of the Napa Valley and about 75 miles north of San Francisco, www.calistogachamber.com
   

Castello di Amorosa: 4045 North St. Helena Hwy. Reservations required for a tour with tasting: 707-967-6272; tastings only available from 9:30 a.m.-6 p.m. For prices, VIP tours, and other information: www.castellodiamorosa.com
   

Dr. Wilkinson’s Hot Springs Resort: 1507 Lincoln Ave. “The Works” with half-hour massage: $129, rooms from $139; 707-942-4879. For information on additional spa treatments, special packages (including “Spring Renewal”) and reservations: www.drwilkinson.com
   

All Seasons Bistro: 1400 Lincoln Ave. Soups from $7, salads $9, entrées from $12, desserts from $6.50, wines by the 5-ounce pour from $7, wines by the bottle from $30; 707-942-9111, www.allseasonsnapavalley.net 

    Patty Burness is the travel writer for Northside San Francisco. E-mail This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it