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Cioppino: a San Francisco classic

Written by Bill Knutson, The Kitchenless Cook

Monday, 31 October 2005

Cioppino has been a San Francisco tradition since the Gold Rush, but its origin can be traced back to the Italian fishing villages that many of the fishermen came from. Cacciuco, a fish stew from the Tuscan port of Livorno, and Ligurian ciuppin, a fish soup served over crusty bread, were the most likely inspirations for our San Francisco cioppino. For all of the dishes, the tradition would be the same: the fishermen would get together and chip in the fish left over after selling their catch to the local merchants and restaurants. The seafood would be added to a large pot filled with a spicy tomato broth and shared among everyone for several days. The acidity of the tomato would hold the bacteria at bay, allowing the stew to last several days, despite the lack of refrigeration. Even in modern times, it still tastes better the next day. My recipe is a quick and easy version of this dish with a primary focus on Dungeness crab in honor of the upcoming crab season. I used only shellfish, but you can use any combination of seafood. If you use fish, choose one that has a firmer flesh, such as salmon or halibut. Shellfish Cioppino 1 cooked Dungeness crab cracked and cleaned (separate meat except legs and claws) 1 pound live clams 3/4 pound mussels 3/4 pound scallops 3/4 pound peeled and deveined shrimp (31-40 count) 2 pounds chopped roma tomatoes 1 pound diced sweet yellow onion 8 cloves chopped garlic 1/4 cup chopped fresh basil 1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley 1/8 cup chopped fresh oregano 2 cups white wine (unoaked, such as sauvignon blanc) 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/2 tablespoon salt 1/2 tablespoon black pepper 1/2 tablespoon crushed red pepper Heat oil over medium-high heat in a large pot (5 quarts or larger). Add onions and garlic and cook until onions are soft and slightly brown, stirring frequently. Add tomatoes, basil, parsley, oregano, salt and peppers. Simmer over medium heat for 20 minutes, stirring frequently. Add wine and simmer for 30 minutes. Raise heat to medium high, and add crab. Add remaining seafood and cook until the clams and mussels open, then reduce heat to low. Simmer for 15 minutes and serve. (Serves 4 to 6.)

Last Updated ( Sunday, 26 November 2006 )