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NorthSide San Francisco

Tuesday
Oct 07th
The Bay is coming back PDF Print E-mail
Thursday, 31 January 2008

patty1Now that the Bay is recovering from the oil spill and returning to its former glory, what better time to explore it from every angle? Take a plane, boat or just simply sit back and enjoy delicious food while taking in the view. Join my husband and me on our fun-filled tour of San Francisco Bay.


 We kicked off our sightseeing adventure with a seaplane ride. Flying over the Golden Gate Bridge at 1,500 feet is exhilarating. It was a picture-perfect day: Everything was as clear as the eye could see. In Sausalito, we boarded the bright, yellow and white 1955 DeHavilland Beaver, an Alaskan-style bush plane. Captain Al, a 50-year veteran of flying, was at the controls along with a little help from his four-legged companion, Buzz, a Springer Spaniel.

 

Immediately after take-off, we headed west toward Muir Woods and Stinson Beach then turned south to soar over the Golden Gate. What a bird’s-eye view of Fisherman’s Wharf, the skyscrapers of the Financial District, City Hall, the ballpark, and the Embarcadero. And just before landing, we were up close and personal with Alcatraz and Angel Island. It was better than a thrill ride at Disneyland – and the photographs are awesome.

 

From above the bay to on the bay, cruising was the next mode of transportation. Two of Hornblower’s more popular sails are the Dinner Dance excursion and a lunch tour that offers a slice of San Francisco history. We did both. Leaving Pier 3 for the evening sail, the California Hornblower motored toward Fisherman’s Wharf, past the twinkling lights of the City, then cut across the bay past Alcatraz and Angel Island before gliding near the Sausalito waterfront and under the Golden Gate Bridge. With three hours of enjoyment and breathtaking views, we dined on four courses of classic American fare and danced to the mellow sounds of the City Beat Quartet. It is the perfectly romantic way to celebrate Valentine’s Day as well as birthdays, holidays and other special occasions. 

 


The Alcatraz Discovery Lunch Cruise is equally dramatic. The luncheon tour guide provides a fascinating historical journey of San Francisco Bay from 1849 when the Gold Rush transformed San Francisco, to the thousands of people processed on Angel Island during World War II, to the 1969 Indian uprising on Alcatraz – all the while soaking up the stunning views and savoring thyme roasted chicken and a luscious fruit tart for dessert. This cruise is the ideal way to wile away an afternoon.

 


Now for a real expedition: to the Farallon Islands, with San Francisco Bay Whale Watching. We were told to expect the unexpected because you can’t predict what you’ll see in nature. And it happened – not more than two hours after the Lovely Martha left the pier – we heard, “Blow at two o’clock!” – and there she was, a humpback whale exhaling forcefully so that her warm breath looked like a puff of smoke. More whales breached for us as they jumped from the water, turned and splashed down. We were lucky to have more than half a dozen sightings as the boat listed from side to side just waiting.

 


But the Farallons beckoned, so we once again cranked up the engines and got underway. Located more than 25 miles from shore, this national marine sanctuary is home to whales, sharks, dolphins, seals, and hundreds of thousands of birds, including the tufted puffin, the pink-footed shearwater and the double-crested cormorant. In fact, this rich ecosystem contains 26 federally designated endangered or threatened species. The distinctive odor, or Farallon perfume as it’s more subtly referred to, isn’t subtle at all. With the thousands of birds and other animals that call the Farallons home, you have to expect to be knocked out. Very few humans ever set foot on the islands because of their inaccessibility – only research scientists cataloguing the numerous species that migrate and breed around them. Don’t worry if you can’t identify all of the wonderful creatures you see on the voyage; there’s a naturalist onboard who points out everything and answers all your questions. 

 


As we headed back to San Francisco and the Farallons became tiny dots on the horizon, we passed the Pt. Bonita Lighthouse. This structure, built in 1877, is the only lighthouse on the West Coast where you actually have to cross a bridge to reach it. And sailing under the Golden Gate is just as thrilling as flying over it. What a day!

 


After all our stimulating adventures, it was time to sit back and relax – and what better way than to enjoy lunch and the view at The Franciscan Crab Restaurant. Now I know you’re probably wondering why any Northsider would venture to Fisherman’s Wharf, but this place is definitely worth a spot on your 2008 “must try” list. Executive Chef Andrea Froncillo learned to cook near Naples from his nonna (grandmother), and his passion for the freshest ingredients and the whole dining experience is contagious.    


Most dishes on the menu capture the chef’s creativity. It’s no surprise he grilled his first shrimp on a sun-heated metal slab that he and friends found on a beach near his boyhood home. But we’ll get to the shrimp after the sumptuous yellow fin tuna carpaccio sprinkled with jalapenos and drizzled with ponzu sauce and warmed olive oil. How do you beat that? With crusty bread, smothered with creamy burrata, paired with a 2007 Ruggeri Prosecco Gold Label, needless to say, we were content to watch the ship traffic on the bay glide by! 

 


Now back to the shrimp: Brought to the table on a sizzling iron skillet reminiscent of Chef’s Froncillo’s childhood, the aroma was intoxicating. White wine and soy sauce were poured over the shrimp (and mussels) and then served with a garlic butter dipping sauce. To balance our feast, we opted for the crab salad – freshly caught Dungeness crab with a soy-ginger dressing. Wonton crisps added the right crunchiness. Although sated, we refused to leave until we had tasted the roasted Dungeness crab with the chef’s secret garlic sauce. The sauce makes the crab dance – what’s better than lots of garlic with lots of crab? Time to wind down with a 2005 Jekel Pinot Noir and house-made frozen custard ice cream melting atop a warm chocolate cookie. Don’t be disappointed when the meal is over and it’s time to leave – get a copy of the chef’s menu cookbook and cook everything you’ve eaten at home – or at least try.

 


The bay is a fabulous place. Don’t take it for granted: Keep it clean. And have lots of fun.


Essentials 

 

San Francisco Seaplane Tours: Depart from Sausalito with complimentary shuttle from Pier 39. Golden Gate Tour: $139/adult, $99/child, 415-981-7625, 888-732-4843, www.seaplane.com  
 
Hornblower Cruises & Events: Pier 3, The Embarcadero, Dinner Dance Cruise from $75/adult; Discovery Lunch Cruise, $59/adult (runs from Memorial Day through Labor Day), 888-467-6156, www.hornblower.com
 
San Francisco Bay Whale Watching: Gas House Cove Marina, just outside Fort Mason, $95/adult, $65/child 12 and under (runs from Oct. 1 through June 30), 415-331-6267, www.sfbaywhalewatching.com
 
 
The Franciscan Crab Restaurant, Pier 43½, Fisherman’s Wharf. Antipasti from $7, iron skillet-roasted shrimp, mussels and crab from $10, salads from $6, Dungeness crab from $19, desserts from $6, wines by the glass from $7 and by the bottle from $19, souvenir menu/cookbook $7; 415-362-7733, www.franciscanrestaurant.com
 


Patty Burness is the travel writer for Northside San Francisco. E-mail: This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it

Last Updated ( Saturday, 09 February 2008 )