This month marks the fifth anniversary of my first column. Thinking back to that time, I would have never imagined that I would still be able to share my thoughts on food and recipes with the world five years later. My first column told the story of my winning recipe for a Super Bowl macaroni and cheese cook-off at my favorite watering hole, the Red Jack Saloon (131 Bay St.). My friend Susan (as in Susan Dyer Reynolds), who at the time was food critic and editor of the Marina Times, joined me at the bar for the game and a little mac ‘n’ cheese (she loves her comfort food). She was so impressed with my win and my recipe, she asked me to write it out for the paper with a little intro. I obliged and the rest is history.
   

There is an ironic side to this story that many people do not know. I wasn’t able to eat any of my own recipe, and not just because it was wholly unhealthful for anyone by today’s standards. I am actually allergic to anything with cow’s milk. I have been for over 10 years now, and have discovered that most people have an allergy or intolerance of some sort to dairy. My reaction leans toward a mild anaphylactic shock, which means my airways constrict and I could potentially stop breathing. Eat cheese or breathe … tough decision.
   

I had to rely on the kindness of strangers to taste my mac ‘n’ cheese for me, and have thought about what I was missing out on for these last five years. I have even contemplated trying it with tofu cheese, but I knew I would be even more disappointed. And then recently, as I was looking deeper into my allergy, I found that most people allergic to cow’s milk are not allergic to sheep’s and goat’s milk. I was willing to experiment. So, I assembled my emergency medical team around me and tried a little goat cheese. And then a little more. Cool, I’m still breathing. And then a little more. Eureka! I had found my mac ‘n’ cheese solution.
   

I soon found myself loitering around cheese counters that I had previously walked by with blinders on. I tried every style I could get my hands on, looking for the perfect flavors to blend in my recipe. I ended up with a selection of sheep’s milk cheeses for their milder, less gamey flavors, and used goat milk and butter to balance out the flavors. I started with a pair of Greek cheeses: Manouri, a semi-soft cheese often used with desserts, and Kasseri, a cheese similar in taste and flavor to a mild cheddar. Next, I went to Italy for a pair of cheeses from Sardinia: Brigante Pecorino Pinna, a sweet and creamy Italian cheese, and to add a little boldness, Gufanti Tartufo Moliterno, a cheese laced with black truffles and anchovy paste. To mix in with the breadcrumb topping, I used Ossau Iraty Valle D’Aspe, a slightly dry Basque cheese that added a nice saltiness to the dish.

Sheep and Goat Milk
Macaroni ‘n’ Cheese

    ¼    pound Manouri cheese,
        shredded
    ¼    pound Kasseri cheese,
        shredded
    ¼    pound Brigante Pecorino
        Pinna, shredded
    ¼    pound Gufanti Tartufo
        Moliterno, shredded
    ⅛    pound Ossau Iraty Valle
        D’Aspe, shredded
    1    cup goat milk
    4    tablespoons goat butter
    1    pound elbow macaroni
    1    tablespoon cornstarch
    ½    cup plain breadcrumbs (I
        used stale sourdough,
        blended to make crumbs)
    3    cloves garlic, whole
    1    teaspoon salt
    1    teaspoon pepper
    1    teaspoon dried basil

   

Cook elbow macaroni per instructions on the package, strain and pour into a baking dish. In a saucepan, melt 2 tablespoons of butter over low heat. When completely melted, add cornstarch and stir. When completely blended, add ½ cup of milk and stir constantly until hot. Add Manouri, Kasseri, Pecorino, and Gufanti cheeses and stir until smooth and creamy, adding the remainder of the milk as you stir. Pour the cheese mixture over the macaroni and mix in.
   

For the breadcrumbs, melt 2 tablespoons butter in a skillet over low heat. Add breadcrumbs, garlic, salt, pepper, and basil. Mix well and cook until crumbs are toasted. Remove garlic cloves. Remove mixture from heat and mix with the Ossau cheese. Distribute evenly over the top of the macaroni and cheese mixture. Place baking dish in a preheated 350-degree oven for 15 minutes. Serve and enjoy.Cheers,Bill