When you talk to Mexicophile and star chef Rick Bayless (best known for his PBS television series, Mexico: One Plate at a Time), two things become apparent: He knows a lot about Mexican cuisine, and he’s very, very passionate about it.   

Sitting down for lunch at his recently opened Frontera Fresco (located in the Cellar at Macy’s Union Square), Bayless also proves a point I’ve long made: the bigger they are, the nicer they are. Soft-spoken and genuine, Bayless eagerly talks about why he has decided to opened Frontera Fresco outlets in some of the nation’s Macy’s department stores.        

“I want to show the bright side of Mexican food,” he explains, “with something simple and clean, to fortify you before or after shopping or for a quick lunch at work.”   

Bayless focuses mainly on the food of Mexico City with dishes like huraches (so named because they resemble a sandal) – corn flat bread layered with black bean spread, chipotle sauce, fresh greens, and your choice of chicken, cheese, steak, or chicken chorizo. Also worth a spin are the handmade tamales – we sampled one with sweet corn, green chiles and creamy goat cheese – and silky guacamole made with roasted tomatillos, garlic and cilantro. For the heartier appetite, Frontera Fresco offers a selection of tortas – grilled sandwiches topped with black bean spread, dressed greens, pickled tomato, and chipotle or cilantro crema, and filled with grilled chicken, steak, smoked pork loin and applewood bacon, or fresh Mexican cheese.    

Frontera Fresco: Macy’s Union Square in the Cellar, 170 O’Farrell St. (at Stockton); www.rickbayless.com