Russian Hill dwellers have a new place to hang out – what used to be Tablespoon has morphed into a “drink kitchen” called Bar Johnny that pairs smaller, sharable plates of snacks, salads and a few heartier entrées with seasonal cocktails made with fresh fruit and premium liquors (like the Russian Hill Punch, made with Hanger One Mandarin Blossom, pomegranate, mint, and soda water)

Start with lighter fare like smoked habanero potato chips, yogurt flat bread with a trio of dips or house-made pretzels with honey mustard. Grilled pizza has a thin, wavy, charcoaled flatbread-style crust – toppings change, but on our visit we enjoyed Grana Padano cheese, portobella mushrooms, house-cured bacon, frisee, green onions, and a drizzle of olive oil. House-made charcuterie included lavender-smoked duck prosciutto and silky chicken liver with date preserves. Staying with the offal theme, the chef dresses up a salad of frisee with duck liver. Other than its fatty, controversial cousin, you don’t see duck liver on many menus, and I don’t know why – while it isn’t as lush as foie gras, it still has a rich flavor with the same mineral undertones

If you want something more filling, try the braised beef and strozzapreti (a twisted pasta with an even more twisted name – it translates to “priest strangler”). Barbecue pork sliders with garlic truffle fries, seared flatiron steak and a cheeseburger also might satisfy, and vegetarians can try the chanterelle mushrooms with beans and rice.

The decor has changed from homey to cool, with wood panel over mirror-paneled walls, loungey lighting, sleek banquettes, and an impressive mural by an Oakland graffiti artist as the focal point behind the bar.

Bar Johnny is a great place for nibbling and sipping with a friend on a lazy, rainy Saturday afternoon. And if you have a few too many bourbon and maples, the walk home will do you good.

Bar Johnny: 2209 Polk St. (at Vallejo), 415-268-0140.