Travel & Leisure
The Inquisitive Traveler
Hudson Valley adventures | Hudson Valley adventures |
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| Tuesday, 08 January 2008 | |
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Rolling hills, budding vines and warm temperatures – am I dreaming? Actually I am – dreaming of the trip my husband and I took to the Hudson River Valley last spring. It’s the right time to plan a getaway to this historic East Coast locale (not far from the Big Apple just in case you have a big city craving).
A quick ride north from Kennedy Airport and you’re in Tarrytown, home of the medieval-style castle on the Hudson. This magnificent historic landmark in the Lower Hudson is where we started our valley crawl. Originally built in two stages between 1897 and 1910, Carrollcliffe, as it was known, was a private residence whose former owners entertained often and in grand style, hosting dignitaries and ambassadors alike. After several uses as a boys’ school and an investment banking business, and with new owners and an expansion, the Castle on the Hudson became a luxury hotel in the 1990s known for its sweeping views of the Hudson River, elegant interiors and lush surroundings.
The rooms and suites are oversized with rich upholstery and all of the amenities that make you feel like a regal castle guest. You can even choose to stay in a tower room. Exploring the beautifully manicured grounds, we found the heated pool and jacuzzi, tennis court and fitness club beckoning us, but exercise wasn’t in the program – dinner at the prized Equus restaurant was. What is more enchanting than gourmet patio dining on a balmy evening overlooking the Hudson?
We began the feast with a lemon and spring pea risotto plated beautifully with sea scallops, pea shoots and pea froth. The chicken and lobster wonton was succulent with exactly the right kick – served with bok choy and shiitake mushrooms in a Thai red curry lobster broth. The porcini mushroom-rubbed tenderloin of Berkshire pork was tender and moist and served with escarole and creamed white beans. And the soft shell crabs were juicy and heaven to eat. Each course was paired with just the right wine and when the full moon came into view, we were swooning. Luckily, we had only a few short steps to our room before falling into a dreamy sleep.
Next morning, after a breakfast of fluffy omelets, fresh fruits, juices and baked breads in the sunlit wood-paneled Garden Room, our journey to the Mid-Hudson began. Crossing the Tappan Zee Bridge to the west bank of the river, we headed north to the tiny town of Gardiner. There we found Tuthilltown Spirits, New York’s only whiskey distillery – converted from an old granary adjoining a gristmill – and registered as a national historic landmark.
Reviving the craft of distilling, the owners are truly artisanal, using only grains, vegetables and fruits from the Hudson. Mind you, they had never done anything like this before. After gutting and redoing the granary, installing a copper German pot still and taking some courses, they work their magic.
Bourbon whiskey (made from corn and aged three months in charred oak casks before bottling), traditional corn whiskey and rye are produced. In fact, the Hudson Manhattan Rye, bottled at 92 proof, was made with the infamous cocktail in mind. Their Heart of the Hudson vodka from local apples comes off the still at 191 proof, but is distilled three more times for the deliciously smooth spirit that is bottled at 80 proof. Don’t be confused: This is not apple-infused vodka.
Just in time for your visit this spring, you’ll find a newly opened tasting room and distillery store. And word is their bourbon will be in San Francisco bars, restaurants and hotels in May.
Time to taste some wine. The Hudson River Valley is home to some of the country’s oldest vineyards – with weather that can be too humid, too cold and with too much precipitation. French Huguenot settlers first planted vines in New Paltz more than 300 years ago. We headed there and discovered the Shawangunk Wine Trail, situated between the Shawangunk Mountains and the Hudson (10 minutes from Gardiner). It is 80 miles long and home to 11 wineries. We chose Rivendell.
Established in 1987, Rivendell Winery not only produces its own multiple award-winning labels, but also is the place to taste wines from all over New York including the Finger Lakes, the Hudson Valley and Long Island. Their 2006 Reisling is dry with flavors of green apples, peaches and a hint of tropical fruit. Don’t miss the 2004 Cabernet with black currant and plum jam influences – drinkable now, but save it. The 2004 Chateau LaFayette Reneau Pinot from the Finger Lakes is a rich, ruby color and lush with tannins. The 2003 Laurel Lake Syrah from the North Fork of Long Island is barrel aged in French oak for 18 months and is soft and silky with a hint of pepper. Their fruit wines – from blueberry to apricot and peach – are wonderful and pair beautifully with dessert. Picnic treats abound, so we took time to sit back and enjoy the view.
Ready to see more, we headed east back across the river and stopped in Hyde Park to visit both the Vanderbilt Mansion and Springwood, the Franklin D. Roosevelt home and library. Situated on expansive manicured and landscaped grounds, these homes exemplify the country estates built by financial and industrial leaders in the late 1800s. You can stroll through the gardens, tour the opulent interiors, and enjoy the panoramic views of the Hudson while being steeped in American history. President Roosevelt conducted official business at Springwood, and both he and Eleanor are buried in its rose garden.
The next stop on the journey was about 45 minutes southeast in the Dutchess County wine region near the quaint village of Millbrook. We made Millbrook Country House (MCH) our home. Lorraine Alexander and Giancarlo Grisi were our gracious hosts. This 19th century colonial is nestled among beautiful trees, wonderful sculpture and bountiful flower and herb gardens. The entire house, as well as each of the four rooms, is tastefully decorated with 18th century antiques lovingly transported from Giancarlo’s family villa near Modena in northern Italy.
Just a short walk from MCH, we wandered through picturesque Millbrook and explored antique and other specialty shops. Ready to relax, we bypassed MCH’s beautifully furnished parlors and opted to sit under the shady Maple trees out back and enjoy afternoon tea. Time flew as Lorraine and Giancarlo recounted delightful stories of life in Italy. Both are gourmet cooks, so sumptuous dinner and breakfast were memorable parts of our visit. The lightly poached pear with lemon syrup glaze, and eggs with herbs fresh from the garden won’t be forgotten.
Before the plane ride back to San Francisco, we had just enough time to stop at Millbrook Winery on the Dutchess Wine Trail. Don’t miss their acclaimed Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. The real treat in this area is visiting – and tasting – Oak Summit Vineyards Pinot Noir. If you’re lucky, owner John Bruno will be open that day. He only produces estate-bottled Pinot with grapes from his six acres. The wine is award-winning with depth, balance and richness. And wait until you see the knockout setting!
It’s been said the Hudson Valley is the Napa of the east, but it’s more accurate to New Yorkers to call Napa the Hudson Valley of the west – you decide. It’s worth the trip to compare.
ESSENTIALS:
Getting there: Fly direct San Francisco to New York Kennedy, www.tripadvisor.com. The Hudson River Valley flows from north central New York to Manhattan, www.hudsonriver.com and www.hudsonrivervalley.com. The best way to tour the valley is by car.
Accommodations & dining: Castle on the Hudson, 400 Benedict Ave., Tarrytown, NY, 914-524-6366, 800-616-4487, www.castleonthehudson.com, deluxe rooms from $340, suites $385-$655. Equus in the Castle on the Hudson: prix fixe menu $74, six-course chef’s tasting menu with wine $160, breakfast from $9. Millbrook Country House, 506 Sharon Turnpike, Millbrook, NY, 845-677-9570, www.millbrookcountryhouse.com, rooms $200-$275 include a full breakfast and afternoon tea. A three-course prix fixe dinner is $45/person (with arrangements made well in advance). Cooking classes are available on request.
Not to miss: Tuthilltown Spirits Distillery, 14 Gristmill Ln., Gardiner, NY, 845-255-1527, www.tuthilltown.com; Rivendell Winery, 507 Albany Post Rd., New Paltz, NY, 845-255-2494, www.rivendellwine.com; Shawangunk Wine Trail, www.shawangunkwinetrail.com; Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site, 519 Albany Post Rd., Hyde Park, NY, 845-229-9115, www.hudsonriverheritage.org; Franklin D. Roosevelt Home and Presidential Library & Museum National Historic Site, 4097 Albany Post Rd., Hyde Park, NY, 877-444-6777, www.nps.gov/hofr; Dutchess Wine Trail, www.dutchesswinetrail.com; Millbrook Vineyards & Winery, 26 Wing Rd., Millbrook, NY, 800-662-WINE, 845-677-8383, www.millbrookwine.com; Oak Summit Vineyard, 372 Oak Summit Rd., Millbrook, NY, 845-677-9522, www.oaksummitvineyard.com.
Must take: Tired of all of the stops before even getting to the airport and on the way back? I was. It was worth it to take SuperShuttle’s ExecuCar service, $60 one-way, $120 roundtrip, 800-410-4444, www.supershuttle.com/?content=ExecuCar. Extra suitcase weight straining your back and slowing you down? Happened to me, but now I sail through the airport with Travelpro’s TPro XtremeLite – a sleek, durable, expandable Rollaboard original that is light and easy to manipulate with lots of room to pack all of those must haves. Comes in a variety of sizes and colors, 800-741-7471, www.travelpro.com/tproxtremelite.html. Patty Burness is the travel writer or Northside. E-mail: This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it
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| Last Updated ( Wednesday, 06 February 2008 ) |