Travel & Leisure
The Inquisitive Traveler
More than summer places | More than summer places |
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| Friday, 30 November 2007 | |
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Gorgeous vistas, sandy beaches and delicious wine and food – Capitola-by-the-Sea, Soquel and the surrounding areas have it year round. Escape the Northside’s dreariness and head down Route 1 for a breathtaking getaway. You don’t have to be gone a long time or venture far from home to reap the benefits. Just 24 hours was all my husband and I needed in this picturesque region to recharge and feel like it had been ages since we left home.
One Sunday earlier this year, we headed south to explore the countryside around Capitola and to visit nearby vineyards in the tiny town of Soquel. Just four miles east of Santa Cruz, we left the flatlands and headed north into the Santa Cruz Mountains. Tucked away on a road snaking through the middle of redwood trees, we found Christine and Vann Slatter at their Hunter Hill Vineyard and Winery. Vann was born and raised in Capitola, and Christine’s grandparents bought the property 100 years ago when it was planted with apple trees, stone fruits and some grapes.
In 1992, they replanted their entire acreage with grapes, and in 1998, opened their winery to the public. Unpretentious and inviting, Hunter Hill specializes in red wines. Their 2002 Syrah Arroyo Seco from the Mesa Del Sol vineyard and their 2003 Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Hellenthal vineyard have earned numerous awards reflecting Vann’s balanced, approachable and carefully crafted style of creating wines. He turned a “basement” hobby into a passionate affair with winemaking and only works with other farmers who share his philosophy. The Santa Cruz Mountains appellation is known for sunny days, moderate nights and a long, cool growing season, so don’t miss the Double Barrel – a blend of two Rhone varietals: Viognier and Roussanne. Hunter Hill even has a 2004 Amador County Vintage Port made from five Portuguese varietals that provides a smooth ending to a delightful visit. But before you’ve tasted all of the available wines, and while your eyesight is still keen, take a good look at the beautiful wooden bar top and find the image of Hunter – their faithful dog after whom the winery is named. You’ll be amazed at how the knots in the wood have brought their namesake to life. (You’ll also find Hunter on their label.)
Farther north into the mountains, we found Soquel Vineyards with its stunning view of the Monterey Bay coastline and valley below. Owned by twins Peter and Paul Bargetto, their new winery sits on land owned previously by their grandfather. The Bargetto family has been making wine in the area for decades. Even with the Italian family heritage and influence on the architecture and decor of the new winery, Soquel Vineyards focuses on Cabernet, Pinot Noir and Zinfandel. Their 2002 Partners Reserve Cab (a multiple award winner) and the 2005 Santa Cruz Mountains Lester Vineyards Pinot are classic, full-bodied and unforgettable Santa Cruz reds. Until the vineyard on their new property is ready to harvest, the brothers limit their production to grapes from select estates to maximize quality.
Time to head back down to sea level and check in – at the old train station. The Inn at Depot Hill has a long history. When the Southern Pacific railroad brought some of the early tourists from the Central Valley to Capitola beginning in 1901, the depot was where they got off the train. The building was used until the rail line terminated in 1958. After moves from one side of the tracks to another, and much renovation and expansion that restored the depot to its original charm, the inn opened in 1990.
The rooms are named after European railway destinations, and our Valencia suite was decorated tastefully with classic yellow and blue fabric, accented with blue and white detailing throughout. With comfy amenities and a fireplace to help us feel cozy and at home, relaxation came easy. Just before it was time to sit on the patio and enjoy wine, sherry and light hors d’oeuvres at afternoon’s end, we headed for the beach and the center of town – just steps away from the inn.
Much has been written about Capitola’s share of touristy shops and places to sit outside on the Esplanade and enjoy the view, but probably the most spectacular sight is the cove of brightly painted houses that envelops the town with color and warmth. The wharf, built in 1857, affords the prime location to watch surfers, take in the shoreline scene, and if you’re lucky, spy on dolphins, too. Capitola boasts that it is the oldest beach resort in the state. In fact, 1869 saw beachfront tents in “Camp Capitola.”
Five minutes north of town on the coast is Pleasure Point Beach. It is said to be one of the most famous surfing spots in Northern California and the view is spectacular. Not that my husband and I were planning to ride the waves, but this was the ideal detour on the way to dinner.
We had heard about a restaurant known for its use of local produce to create innovative Italian dishes, and we weren’t disappointed at Sestri. It’s located just between Santa Cruz and Capitola and named for the Italian town of Sestri Levante (which happens to be the sister city of Santa Cruz and the original home of the owners).
Surrounded by modern decor reminiscent of the Italian Riviera and an open kitchen, we began our tasting extravaganza. A Prosecco vinaigrette inspired a yellow beet and spinach salad to sparkle. The grilled pork tenderloin was cooked to perfection and served on a bed of carrot puree with sautéed Swiss chard and a gorgonzola demiglace. We tasted the veal Milanese, but the menu changes seasonally and is now offering a classic veal parmigiano. There is something for everyone on the menu, which includes an assortment of pastas, homemade meatballs and pizzas, but save room for the chocolate amarone cake – it’s rich and delicious. With its location in the heart of the Santa Cruz Mountains appellation, Sestri offers a flight of local wines in addition to an interesting selection from California, the Northwest and, of course, Italy.
Full from dinner, we passed by the array of desserts offered to guests at the inn and headed right for a dreamy sleep. The next morning, we approached the sunken tub-shower with some trepidation. Several steps up to the landing then down into the tub made careful maneuvering essential.
Ready for the one part homemade breakfast and one part continental, we found our seats in the old ticket sales area, complete with ticket windows, and now the casual dining room. We chose the soft and fluffy artichoke frittata, paired with fresh fruit and rich coffee, and we were set for a quick ride back to The City.
In less than 24 hours, we escaped the routine of city life and home maintenance and indulged in scenic and gastronomic pleasures – who could ask for more? Getting there:
Capitola-by-the-Sea and Soquel are about 75 miles south of San Francisco. Take Route 1 or Interstate 280 to Highway 17 toward Santa Cruz and then pick up Route 1. Visit www.capitola.com and www.soquel.com for more information. Accommodations:
The Inn at Depot Hill, 250 Monterey Ave., Capitola-by-the-Sea, 800-572-2623, www.innsbythesea.com. Lodging with breakfast and evening beverages, hors d’oeuvres and desserts from $189 weekdays and $259 weekends. Dining:
Sestri, 655 Capitola Rd, Santa Cruz, 831-479-0200, www.sestrisantacruz.com. Open Monday-Saturday for dinner only; appetizers from $7, salads from $5, entrees from $13, desserts from $5, wine from $14/bottle, and wine flights, $16. Not to miss: Hunter Hill Vineyard and Winery, 7099 Glen Haven Rd., Soquel, 831-465-929,
www.hunterhillwines.com. Tastings: Saturday-Sunday, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. or by appointment. Soquel Vineyards, 8063 Glen Haven Rd., Soquel, 831-462-9045,
www.soquelvineyards.com. Tastings: Saturday-Sunday, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. or by appointment. Santa Cruz Mountain Winegrowers Association, www.scmwa.com.
Pleasure Point Beach,
WWW.californiatraveldreams.com/beaches-SantaCruz.htm/Pleasure#Pleasure. All Photos by Bo Links |
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| Last Updated ( Monday, 21 January 2008 ) |