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Fried Chicken Frenzy

Written by Susan Dyer Reynolds, Northside Editor

Thursday, 30 June 2005

A self-professed fiend sets out to find the best fried chicken on the Northside (and a few other places) She really did cook the best fried chicken in the world. And even though I conservatively estimate that I ate more than a thousand pieces of it before she died, I cannot tell you what made it so good. — Julia Reed on family cook Lottie Martin, in Queen of the Turtle Derby and Other Southern Phenomena" My earliest recollection of fried chicken is watching the bright yellow Chicken Delight car with the big plastic rooster on the roof pull up in front of our house. I was far too young then to remember what it tastes like now, but I know I liked it. What a great concept – buckets of fried chicken delivered right to your door. Evidently, the rest of the Silicon Valley didn’t think so, because Chicken Delight went belly up. Before long, a Kentucky Fried Chicken opened on the corner, and while they didn’t have a cool yellow car with a plastic rooster on the roof, I thought I’d died and gone to fried chicken heaven. It was strategically placed dead center between school and my house; I would stop on my way home for a drumstick and make sure I wiped all the grease off my face so my mom wouldn’t suspect. It’s not that she was a bad cook – quite the contrary – but her Italian/Welsh heritage pretty much guaranteed that fried chicken wasn’t on the menu. Spaghetti aglio e olio, yes, fried chicken, no. Throughout most of my early childhood, I thought KFC was the pinnacle of fried chicken, but that illusion was shattered one summer in Memphis, Tennessee. My father was a teacher, and every summer we took a road trip back east to visit my grandparents in Rhode Island. I can trace a large part of the reason I became a food critic to these journeys – dad planned his cross-country route around the restaurants he wanted to visit. We went to the Luxury Diner in Cheyenne for biscuits and gravy; we cruised through Atlanta to lap up griddled cheese grits; we hit Omaha and had a magnificent steak dinner at Johnny’s – and one fateful summer, based on the suggestion of a co-worker, dad took us to the Four Way Grill in Memphis, Tennessee. Biting into that crunchy, juicy, steamy chicken was a revelation – for the first time, I tasted true Southern fried chicken, and there was no turning back. Even when we reached New England, dad’s plans revolved around favorite foods – quahogs, coffee milk, Greek wieners, johnnycakes. Ever the tomboy and daddy’s girl, I ate my way through the state with him – by the age of 10, I couldn’t get enough littlenecks on the half shell or twin lobster dinners (I always asked for mine baked-stuffed). I went clamming with my grandfather and helped him make his wonderful caciucco; I sucked down fried anchovies by the dozen as a midday snack, and I hoarded the steamers at our annual family clambake. But this particular summer, I found my mind wandering back to Memphis, Tennessee, and platters of delectable Southern fried chicken. When the summer ended and we headed home to California, I begged my father to swing back by the Four Way Grill, and a fried chicken fiend was born. Besides the culinary influences of my foodie father and Sicilian grandfather, the other reason I believe I became a food critic is that I have a very picky palate. My friends say that dining with me can be excruciating, because I want things just so and I’m not afraid to ask. Fried chicken is no exception – I like it pure, simple and Southern-style. Crusts made of bread crumbs, panko, cornflakes, cornmeal, Captain Crunch or anything other than flour is an abomination in my book. The seasoning should be limited to salt, pepper and, if you must, a few select poultry flavor-enhancing herbs like thyme, sage, marjoram and rosemary. As long as it’s not taste-bud blowing hot, a pinch of cayenne is okay, too. So what exactly is “Southern” fried chicken? In his book, The World’s Best Fried Chicken Recipes, Georgia native Damon Lee Fowler says that “all cooks, no matter how faithfully they might follow a recipe, will bring to the pot their individual taste and experience.” The Chinese refer to it as “wok presence,” and Fowler believes there is no better illustration of it “than in what can arguably be called the South’s national dish – fried chicken.” In 1824, Mary Randolph offered this simple recipe in the third printing of Virginia House-Wife: Dredge chicken pieces in flour, sprinkle with salt and pepper and fry in a skillet until golden brown. She also included the recipe for cream gravy, considered an essential part of the meal. While the basic ingredients – chicken, flour, salt, pepper and frying fat – remain unchanged nearly 200 years after Randolph’s book, Fowler insists that if you give those ingredients to a roomful of Southern cooks, “you will have as many variations, each tasting completely different from the others, as you will have cooks.” Though generations past and present may disagree about whose recipe is the truest, most do agree that you can vary the cooking method without detriment, substituting a deep fryer or a Dutch oven for the traditional cast-iron skillet. There is one thing, however, that true Southern cooks say you cannot replace – lard. I realize this sends shivers down the spines of health-conscious Northsiders everywhere, but if you want authentic flavor and the ultimate crispy crust, lard is the only way to go. If the South is known for fried chicken, the West Coast is known for organic, seasonal ingredients, and the Northside, home to renowned restaurants like La Folie, Gary Danko, Quince and Tartare, exemplifies this as well as any place in the Bay Area. It also turns out to have some pretty fantastic fried chicken. With diners on small plate overload, comfort food is making a comeback, and so it seemed like the perfect time to set out in search of the best fried chicken on the Northside, as well as across town and out of town. My criteria were as simple as Mary Randolph’s recipe – it needed to be hot, crunchy, juicy and tender, and the breast meat had to be moist, which is paramount to great fried chicken. I call this test the breastalyzer, ranking the moistness of the meat on a scale of one to seven, with one being bone-dry and seven being chin-dribbling succulent. After several months of research (and several additional kick-boxing sessions per week), here are my choices for the best fried chicken: On the Northside Powell’s Place 1521 Eddy Street at Fillmore, (415) 409-1387 The bird: Puny chickens need not apply – these birds are large and plump. The coating: Flour, dash of salt and black pepper. No egg wash or marinade. Best sides: Creamy, homemade grits, salty greens and cornmeal coated fried okra. The story: Renowned gospel personality Emmit Powell opened San Francisco’s landmark Southern restaurant over 30 years ago. With soul food enjoying a renaissance, it seems fitting that Powell’s Place would move from their kitschy original home in Hayes Valley to bright, spacious digs in the heart of the Fillmore’s famous Jazz District. Powell’s uses humongous pieces of poultry, but when you bite into the crunchy, slightly salty crust, the meat is still tender and succulent – quite a feat, considering larger chickens can be tough and the longer cook time can make them even tougher. You get your money’s worth at Powell’s – big birds with big flavor. Breastalyzer: 4 out of 7. Again, considering the size of the bird, Powell’s Place produces surprisingly moist white meat. U Street Restaurant & Lounge 1980 Union Street near Gough, (415) 409-0150 The bird: Poussin (very young chicken, about one pound) The coating: Flour, rosemary, thyme, paprika, salt and pepper, Old Bay. Wash of eggs, cream and a dash of Tapatio hot sauce. Best sides: Half a bird comes with creamy garlic Yukon gold potatoes and saut&eacuteed fresh spinach. The story: If Powell’s Place is the granddaddy of fried chicken, U Street is Mini Me. While many menus tout spring chicken, executive chef Michael Schley’s delightful take on a truly small plate is the real deal. In the past, chickens only reproduced in the spring, and since the younger chickens were considered tender, they were the only ones eaten, while the older birds were used for soups and stews (hence the saying that someone is “no spring chicken”). Nowadays, chickens breed year-round, so the term “spring chicken” doesn’t really apply. Poussins, because they are young and small, are extremely tender, but not gamy like other small birds such as Cornish game hens, squab or quail. At U Street, the &uumlber tender meat is served au jus, creating a caramelized yet crispy crust that gets just a bit of heat from the hot sauce (for Michael’s recipe, see “The Kitchenless Cook,” page 10). Breastalyzer: 5 out of 7. The small bird doesn’t have to fry long, helping to produce some of the moistest white meat I’ve found. Washington Square Bar & Grill(Monday nights only) 1707 Powell Street at Filbert, (415) 982-8123 The bird: Medium sized fryer. The coating: Flour, salt, white pepper, black pepper and cayenne pepper; marinated overnight in buttermilk and Tabasco sauce. Best sides: Creamy old-fashioned mashed potatoes, homemade chicken gravy and fresh corn with chipolte butter. The story: Executive chef Matt Reilly, who cooked in Louisiana prior to his post at the Washbag, does the only version of “soft crust,” a Southern-fried style that entails frying the chicken golden brown, letting it rest and finishing it in the oven to partially crisp the crust. I love soft crust chicken, but the oven finish adds an extra step, so you don’t see it in restaurants often. Reilly’s is terrific, with a supple yet crisp, slightly spicy coating encasing the sumptuous meat (for Matt’s recipe, see “The Kitchenless Cook,” page 10). Breastalyzer: 4 out of 7. The oven roasting just prior to serving brings out the juices. Get Across Town Blue Jay Café919 Divisadero Street at McAllister, (415) 447-6066 The bird: The puny birds rejected by Powell’s have found a home – these are small but tasty. The coating: Flour, salt, pepper, paprika and whole rosemary leaves. Best sides: The cheesy grits, full of gooey, rich Gruy&egravere and the slightly sweet medallions of corn bread. The story: Named for co-founder Jay Foster (who also co-founded the popular Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack), the Blue Jay Café became an instant hit serving heaping platters of some of The City’s best fried chicken. One bite into the thin but crunchy coating releases the steam, redolent with rosemary and paprika. Breastalyzer: 5 out of 7. Blue Jay serves their breast boneless, cutting down the cooking time for white meat that is mouthwateringly moist. Jack Falstaff 598 Second Street at Brannan, (415) 836-9239 The bird: Rosie’s Free Range. The coating: Flour, salt and pepper. Best sides: House-ground buckwheat waffles with maple butter, glazed baby carrots, sherry, onion and black pepper gravy. The story: The origin of “chicken ’n waffles” is the source of much debate. While the waffle iron itself dates back to the 1790s when Thomas Jefferson brought one back from France, Wells Restaurant, which opened in 1938 during the Harlem Renaissance, is thought to be the home of what to many seems like a strange combination. Owner Joseph T. Wells claimed that he started serving chicken with waffles to accommodate the late-night crowds who wanted both dinner and breakfast. Whatever the story, the sweet syrup, fluffy waffles and fried chicken combo works. Executive chef James Ormsby does a terrific gourmet turn on the classic, with house-ground buckwheat waffles and thick-crusted organic chicken that has the best overall flavor of any we tried. Thick crust can turn doughy, but not here – it’s crisp through and through. Breastalyzer: 5 out of 7. That thick crust really seals in the juices. Get Outta Town House of Chicken and Waffles 444 Embarcadero at Jack London Square, Oakland, (510) 836-4446 The bird: Medium/large fryers. The coating: Flour, salt and pepper. Best sides: The waffles aren’t mind-blowing, but they go great with the chicken. The grits are velvety, but ask for them dry or they’ll arrive drowning in oversalted butter. The potato salad is some of the best we’ve had – tender potatoes bound with just enough mayo and flecked with sweet relish. The story: It was a sad day in Oakland when Roscoe’s Chicken ’n and Waffles on Grand Avenue closed – I used to love lazing over a brunch of drumsticks and thighs dunked in warm, sticky maple syrup. Co-owner Derreck Johnson had hoped to be the first franchise of the popular waffle house outside of southern California – his father even managed the original Hollywood location in the 1970s – but the deal fell through (and a trademark-infringement injunction was filed against them). Undeterred, Johnson dropped the Roscoe’s and reopened at Jack London Square. The chicken is delicately seasoned and has a thin flour coating – it crunches but doesn’t fall apart, always a plus. The waffles are golden, crisp and overflowing with a mound of butter, and the maple syrup is still the perfect dip for drumsticks. If you do go to HCW, be prepared to wait. The staff is slower than molasses – empty tables went unbused for 10 minutes or more, and the service on our visit was some of the worst we’ve ever had. But they do get bonus points for serving chicken and waffles until 4 a.m. on the weekends. Breastalyzer: 4 out of 7. When the chicken finally does hit your table it is hot and juicy, including the all-important white meat. Southern Café 2000 MacArthur Boulevard at Canon Avenue, Oakland, (510) 261-1404 The bird: Medium/large fryers. The coating: Flour, salt, pepper and “secret spices.” Best sides: Spicy red beans, smoky black-eyed peas and creamed corn. The story: The Southern Café is an institution. The family-owned business has been serving soul food in Oakland for 30 years, the first 25 on East 14th Street. Maralena Clay says she makes chicken just like her mama, originally from Louisiana, by seasoning the chicken – not the flour – with salt, pepper and spices she won’t disclose. She dips the pieces in egg wash, dusts them with flour, and fries them until golden brown. One bite into the thin, crunchy coating sent the hot juices dribbling down our chins, and we like that. Breastalyzer: 6 out of 7. Southern Café is our winner, with a breast almost as moist as the chin-dribbling drumstick and thigh. Conclusion: There is some mighty fine Southern fried chicken on the Northside and beyond – and it’s nice to know that when I get a hankering, I don’t have to ask my dad to drive me to Memphis. Susan is the editor of Northside and the Marina Times, as well as a restaurant critic for Gayot.com. She worked previously as the lifestyle editor for LookSmart.com and LookSmart Live. To read archived reviews and features, visit her personal Website, www.reynoldsraps.com. You can write to her at This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it

Last Updated ( Saturday, 12 January 2008 )