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Cover Stories Got the Blue Jean Blues?
Cover Stories Got the Blue Jean Blues? | Got the Blue Jean Blues? |
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| Written by Catherine Nash | |
| Thursday, 30 June 2005 | |
 Fit for all figures: Seven for All Mankind’s “Crystal Pocket Bootcut Stretch, New York/Pink Crystals” ($198) was a winner with all of our models, from curvy to long and lean. Photo by Elizabeth Armstrong “Finding the perfect jeans is like finding a dream guy in San Francisco,” laments Russian Hill resident Christina Card about the endless search for great-fitting, great-looking denim. Amen! Since Seven for All Mankind’s debut in 2000, designer denim has exploded in a new wave of brands – Earnest Sewn, 575, Taverniti So and Loomstate, to name a few. With so many unfamiliar choices and a wide array of washes and cuts to choose from, it’s easy to sink into denim despair. To help, we’ve assembled a guide to the hottest designers and trends, so prepare to fall head over heels in love with a new label, up-and-coming look, or fabulous fit. Designing Men In ancient Troy, Helen’s face launched a thousand ships. In the denim wars, all it takes is Cameron Diaz’s butt. Two new brands, 575 and Taverniti So, have been spotted on Tinseltown’s beloved trendsetter and both are beginning to break away from the pack. Sacred Blue alumni Shaun Hurley and Frank Mechaly launched 575 in January 2005. Channeling their shared passion for vintage, they set out to create a brand – and define a lifestyle. “It’s all about our basic jean,” says Hurley, president of sales. But it’s more than denim: Hurley emphasizes the ethos behind 575, a so-called “surf” mentality reflected in the “casual, laid-back” look. Distressed fabric, denim-on-denim patches, messy Frankenstein-scar stitching and a penny button are all 575 hallmarks. Each pair undergoes multiple washings and is hand-finished, taking 2-3 weeks to complete. “Our wash is vintagey, acidy, something that’s not out there right now. It stands out,” Hurley states proudly. And the fit is paramount. 575 employs three different models for every size, each with a different body type – slim, curvy and average. Hurley stresses that 575 jeans are not made for tall, skinny models. “We wanted to do something that looks good on everyone.” The antithesis to 575’s California casual vibe is the European-infused Taverniti So. The brainchild of French-born designer Jimmy Taverniti, Taverniti So jeans are a slim, sexy fit that first came out this spring. Though the ripped key pocket on the front has become the company’s signature, the laser technology behind the jeans is even more distinctive. Working with David Johnson, a denim washer and industry celebrity, Taverniti So developed a computer-guided washing and aging process that takes 16 hours. Gregory Abbou, co-owner and brand manager, explains, “We developed our own pattern [of whiskers] and scanned it into a computer that recreated it with a laser. We are the first to do this.” The result is an authentic, lived-in look. For fall 2005, Taverniti and Abbou found inspiration in old military movies and a couple of 50-year-old parachutes they happened upon in an L.A. military surplus store. “Everything is in piles and you have rats, you have cockroaches, but it’s a treasure chest. We love to go and find the relics,” Abbou admits with a laugh. They re-created the patterns from the parachutes and used them on their labels. What’s next? “We take inspiration from a lot of different periods,” Abbou says. “Next spring we are going for a gypsy look.” Beyond the Back Pocket Squiggle Top online denim retailer Shopbop.com, launched in March of 2000, frequently appears in fashion magazines and on television for their denim expertise. While they carry 75 women’s lines from swimwear to shoes, Shopbop became an industry trendsetter when they took a chance on a then little-known brand called Seven for All Mankind and helped to launch a designer denim revolution. Today, Shopbop offers approximately 25 lines of denim, but Seven remains one of their top sellers, in large part because they continue to lead the revolution with inventive styles, washes and designs. This spring and fall, denim is all about embellishment: from crystals, studs and rivets to patches and embroidery, fun, funky looks top the list of must-have jeans – and Shopbop stylist Alle Fister, who has dressed bachelorette Jen Scheft and appeared on shows like The View and Good Morning America, credits Seven with the trend. “Seven really kicked it off with the Swarovski crystal,” Fister notes. Styles include the Crystal Pocket Bootcut Stretch ($198) with crystals stitched subtly along the back pocket flourish, and the over-the-top Havana Crystal C ($995) that’s encrusted with crystals up and down both legs. Rock & Republic is another label that’s star-studded – in more ways than one. They teamed up with Victoria Beckham (a.k.a. Posh Spice) to create the London Crown ($214) with a crown sewn on the back pocket in pink or silver thread. Taverniti So’s Custom Janis ($365), originally created for rocker Sheryl Crow, flashes over 200 silver buttons. At the Blues Jean Bar on Union Street, shoppers can belly up to the bar and have one of the knowledgeable “bartenders” navigate the over 30 brands and hundreds of styles on tap. “As the market grows, people are trying to differentiate their brands. You will continue to see that,” owner Lady Reiss predicts. Embroidery and patchwork are another enticement, says Reiss, for the customer who has “every other kind of wash.” On Antik Denim’s Fawcett ($275), pockets embroidered in an artful design reminiscent of the ancient Aztecs come standard. They’ll kick that up a notch for fall with embroidered birds and flowers. True Religion’s Godiva Bobby Rigid ($286) showcases the bare-breasted Lady at play with peacocks, and Chip & Pepper’s Sorority Girl ($275) comes in two variations: the Sweetheart has yellow and pink psychedelic heart patches, while a groovy road and sun grace the Nirvana. More adventurous fashionistas will want to stock up on European-inspired skinny jeans. Fister thinks Blue Cult ($152) has some of the best. “Boots over jeans has always been a sleek, cool look. If you don’t have skinnies, [the jeans will] bag at your knee.” But this is not a trend to follow blindly. If you don’t have a long, lean frame, keep walking. Pockets continue to draw attention, from flaps (Yanuk, Hudson) to darts (James) to unadorned pockets, which stand out for their simplicity (Paige Premium, Earnest Sewn). White is the new blue, with Joe’s Jeans, Antik Denim and others going beyond the pale. Environmentally conscious shoppers can rejoice in Loomstate, a line made from pesticide-free organic cotton. With faux-flap pockets and a great backside fit, Loomstate is more than just an earth-friendly investment. Do these trends mean that plain old denim is passé? Hardly. Reiss calls denim “an American staple,” a perspective echoed by 575’s Hurley, who says, “It’s red, white and blue. It’s meat and potatoes. It’ll always be around.” The Perfect Fit Three models – long and lean, average, and curvaceous – tried on a range of brands and styles. Each figure type has a different complaint: “long and lean” can never find jeans that are long enough for her never-ending legs, “curvaceous” has to choose between jeans that fit her waist or her curvy hips and behind, and “average” just wants something that flatters without overcompensating in any specific area. Below, the top choices for each figure do exactly what’s required – fit well and look great. Long and lean: With crystals on the pocket, “nothing is cuter” than Seven for All Mankind’s “Crystal Pocket Flare Non Stretch, Havana/Grey Crystals” ($216). True Religion’s “Bobby Stretch” ($172) are “a bit flashy, but super hot” with a low waist and derriere-flattering pockets. The best news? Both are long enough for stilettos! Curvaceous: Our booty-licious babe calls Joe’s Jeans’ “Honey” ($143) her “go-to jean” since they’re roomier in the seat and cleverly cut in at the waist to eliminate the gap between a large hip-to-waist ratio. Seven for All Mankind’s “Crystal Pocket Bootcut Stretch, New York/Pink Crystals” ($198) are “roomier in the thighs” so they’re more forgiving of well-muscled legs. Average: Seven for All Mankind is a double winner. The “Miller Trouser Stretch” jeans ($176) are perfect for anything “from a Green Day concert to the opera,” and the “Long Bootcut Stretch, St. Topaz” ($165) fit like “comfy jeans I’ve had forever” without dragging along the floor. Crowd Pleaser: Citizens of Humanity’s “Faye Pacific Stretch” ($154) was a winner for all three shapes. A trouser jean with a wide cuff, the “Faye” is fitted up top before relaxing “in the right places.” Says our average model, “These are just sexy, period.”  When it comes to denim, guys look for comfort, but they care about style, too. Photo by Elizabeth Armstrong For men, it's all about looks ... when it comes to denim, that is. Scottie Durrett of the Blues Jean Bar confirms that men care more about how jeans look than how they fit. Given a man's nearly constant waist-to-hip ratio, finding a good fit is less of a problem and so it comes down to design. "They're graduating from Levi's or Gap jeans," Durrett says of her average customer, and the first foray into the world of designer denim can be overwhelming. Even for men who wear mid-range brands like Lucky or Diesel, the price tag may come as a shock. "They don't understand why jeans cost what they cost until it's explained," Durrett continues. An example? A pair of Earnest Sewn jeans might retail for over $200, but they take 18 hours to make and are signed by the designer inside. Plenty of guys are scared away by fussy pockets and washes. "They want something they can wear out to dinner or to a game," says Durrett. The Blues Jean Bar's best sellers for men include Sacred Blue, Earnest Sewn, AG and Yanuk. The AG Hero ($149) is a great basic since it's free of highly designed pockets. Yanuk's Basic Six-pocket ($155) in a baby-soft fabric has subtle touches like v-shaped belt loops and two-tone stitching. More adventurous shoppers prefer True Religion's Joey ($176) with the low ragged back pocket in a signature horseshoe design. So, what does a guy need to know to break into designer denim? • Don't be afraid of Lycra. Few men's lines add stretch, and those that do keep it to a minimum. With 1 percent Lycra, the material has just enough stretch to keep its shape wear after wear, without flaunting your "package." • Don't turn and run because of sticker shock. Denim companies aren't ripping you off; their denim simply costs more to make. A lot of time and technology goes into crafting a pair of jeans, including multiple washings, laser technology and hand-sanded hems. • Be willing to try three to five styles. To find the best fit and style, you have to be open-minded. Often, jeans that look wrong on the rack end up being your favorite. • Be flexible with size. So you've always been a 33. So what? Designer denim has a slimmer cut and most men go up in size to achieve a comfortable fit in the backside and crotch. How to spot a fake online When it comes to designer denim, you don't want to end up with an expensive fake. Online deals that seem too good to be true probably are. We found a bejeweled Honey by Joe's Jeans for $55 on eBay, but when compared side by side with the real thing, it was evident the jeans were cheap and badly done imitations: the fabric was stiff and smelled of polyurethane, the cut was all wrong, the trademark leather logo was incorrect, and the zipper broke on the first wear. A call to Joe's Jeans revealed that they don't even make the Honey with crystal embellishment. When we contacted the seller via email about our findings, he hightailed it off eBay and all of his listings disappeared with him. In order to avoid getting ripped off, it is best to buy designer denim from reputable purveyors and skip the auctions altogether. Shopbop.com's Alle Fister offers this advice on how to spot a knockoff: 1. If you haven't seen the style at a reputable boutique, online shop or department store, it's probably a fake. 2. Read descriptions carefully to catch sneaky verbiage. Terms like "genuine material" mean it's not the real deal. 3. Check the seller's other auctions: large quantities for sale may be a sign of manufactured fakes. 4. Pay attention to detail. Most jeans have unique labels and sales tags to differentiate themselves, and the fakes usually make mistakes. Where to Buy: Shopbop.com www.shopbop.com, (877) 746-7267. Full selection of women’s denim. Blues Jean Bar 1827 Union Street, (415) 346-4280. Full selection of women's and men's denim. |
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| Last Updated ( Saturday, 12 January 2008 ) |
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