When friends question my salumi obsession, all I have to do is explain that my family had a delicatessen when I was young – it became an integral part of my food pyramid. Fortunately, I don’t have to depend solely upon local delis to get my fix anymore. In fact, I prefer the handcrafted product many local chefs are assembling and curing on their own. Here are a few local spots where you can eat up:

A16: Executive Chef Nate Appleman knows his meats – he even went to Italy to learn the craft. He cures a variety of lesser-known cuts like ciccioli and luganega, or traditional faves like coppa, fennel salame, and bresaola. 2355 Chestnut St. (at Scott/Divisadero), 415-771-2216, www.a16sf.com

Fatted Calf: You never know what you’ll find at their weekly stand at the Ferry Plaza Farmers’ Market on Saturdays (well, unless you subscribe to their newsletter). One Embarcadero (at Market), 510-653-4327, www.fattedcalf.com

CAV: They’ve started curing their own salumi in their temperature-controlled wine storage room downstairs. Order up a sampler plate of Drew’s handiwork, and don’t forget a glass of wine. 1666 Market St. (at Gough), 415-437-1770, www.cavwinebar.com

Incanto: Many know Chef Chris Cosentino as “Mister Offal,” but to me, he’s “Mister Mortadella.” 1550 Church St. (at Duncan), 415-641-4500, www.incanto.com

A few other places around town that cure their own and slice it up: Terzo, Quince, and Zuni Café. Don’t miss the product at Perbacco, a brand-new Italian restaurant built with a curing room.