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Aug 20th
Home arrow Best of Food & Wine 2006 arrow Best of Food arrow Guilty Pleasures of a Food Critic
Guilty Pleasures of a Food Critic PDF Print E-mail
Written by Susan Dyer Reynolds   
Monday, 20 November 2006

I eat out six, sometimes seven, nights a week, and I certainly partake in more than my fair share of fine dining. While researching this issue, I enjoyed meals at The French Laundry, Gary Danko, Manresa, Silks, and La Folie in a period of less than two months – wonderful, yes, but every now and then, I crave a night at home with some bad reality TV and a bowl of Grape-Nuts. Like everyone else, I have guilty pleasures that only my closest friends are privy to, and I found out recently that my fellow food writers here at Northside San Francisco have a few secrets of their own, too.

Wine and food pairing and events editor, Jeannine Sano, has one of the most discerning palates I’ve ever come across, but she also likes Big Macs and bologna. Catherine Nash is well-versed in all things fresh from the farm, but she still sneaks the occasional Krispy Kreme doughnut and Johnny Rockets’ cheeseburger. I’ve known Bill “the Kitchenless Cook” Knutson to forget firing up the grill and instead indulge in a carnitas burrito from the taco truck or a few microwaveable pork rinds (yes, they stay crunchy). Our very own Goddess of Scoop, Marcia Gagliardi, confesses cravings for Zante’s Indian pizza, and a double cheeseburger and a Bud for lunch at Red’s Java House (but notes that the guilty pleasure of a drunken food writer is Burger King at 2 a.m.).

My guilty pleasures consist mostly of mall food, hangover cures, and chain restaurant delights that I crave from my gastronomically wayward youth in the Valley of the Olive Garden:

Tuna salad sandwiches from gas station convenience stores
It comes in a triangular plastic container (the same shape as the sandwich) and there are only three ingredients – tuna, mayo, and white pepper. After the first bite, I realized that white pepper had changed my entire way of thinking about this often overly junked-up sandwich – who knew white pepper could make such a difference? The folks creating gas station convenience store sandwiches, apparently. I like my tuna salad simple – no onions, no celery, no strange fruit – and this is about as simple as it gets.

Bean and cheese burrito, fresh from the 7-Eleven microwave oven at 3 a.m.
Don’t “tsk tsk” me – you know you’ve watched that burrito go ‘round and ‘round, your mouth watering in anticipation of the perfectly balanced man-made cheese goo and mashed-up pinto beans in a soft, steaming hot tortilla.

DJ’s rice
My friend DJ was the backstage manager at the Fillmore and Warfield theaters and in the wee hours of the morning after a Brian Setzer New Year’s Eve show he said, “Want some fried rice with an egg and some cheese?” I scrunched my nose at him just like you’re doing as you read this, but don’t knock it until you’ve tried it – leftover egg fried rice, an over-easy egg, and a palm full of shredded Parmesan is heaven in a bowl after a long night on the town.

BLT on white toast with French fries at the Lucky Penny
2670 Geary Blvd. (at Masonic) next to Trader Joe’s, 415-921-0836
When you go to a diner, don’t order the prime rib, the pot roast, or the fried catfish – be sensible and stick to the basics: breakfast items and sandwiches. If you do this at the Lucky Penny, I promise you won’t be disappointed. When we have a tough deadline and I’m driving home at 6 a.m. in the rain, I stop in for one of the best BLTs in town with thick-cut fries that are steamy soft inside and crisp and golden outside. You can’t beat the price either – most of the sandwiches are under $7 and the portions are huge. The Lucky Penny is open 24/7, 364 days a year (they’re closed Labor Day) and it’s a great “locals only” kind of joint filled with cops, bus drivers, and drunken college kids. Let all the harried shoppers pile up outside of Trader Joe’s ill-conceived parking lot – pull right into the Lucky Penny, march up to the Formica counter, and order a BLT.

Potato Buds for breakfast
Hey, I have a highly developed palate – not just any instant mashed potatoes will do. Potato Buds are one of Betty Crocker’s finest creations – 100 percent real Idaho potatoes dried into little flakes (with a dash of mono and diglycerides to improve texture and a pinch of sodium bisulfite and BHT to protect freshness). I make some of the best mashed potatoes on earth – a blend of russet and Yukon gold, milk, salt, and pepper whipped into a creamy dollop – but who has time for that at 9 in the morning?

Orange chicken from Panda Express
In a mall near you, as well as at 1480 Fillmore St. (at O’Farrell), 415-292-9993www.pandaexpress.com
You can’t beat the crunchy coating, sticky sweet-with-some-heat sauce and tender all-white meat chicken – and Panda Express has such a steady stream of customers that the little gooey nuggets are nearly always fresh from the wok. (If they’re down to the bottom of the steam tray, wait about two minutes and the cooks will come out and replenish the supply.)

Orange Julius
In a mall near you, orangejulius.com None of the fancy new flavors like “Strawberry Sensation” and “Banananilla” – I’ll take the original. Only inventor Julius Freed himself knows what’s in the “Julius Flavor Enhancer” that goes into the blender with the ice, OJ, and sugar water to give it that froth, but I suspect it’s powdered eggs because fresh egg whites were used in the first Orange Julius recipe back in 1926.

Hot Dog on a Stick
In a mall near you, www.hotdogonastick.com
What began in 1946 as a small stand at Muscle Beach in Southern California has turned into a multimillion dollar, 100 percent employee-owned business (so that’s why they’re willing to wear red polyester shorts, striped hats, and striped shirts while jumping up and down to squeeze the lemons for the lemonade). These corndogs are made to order – 100 percent turkey dogs (and in some locations, veggie dogs) dipped into their exclusive “Party Batter” and fried in 100 percent vegetable oil until they turn a dark, bronzed brown. When I was in college, I couldn’t wait for my break at Macy’s to grab a couple of corndogs, pump lots of yellow mustard on them, and wash it all down with some of that fresh-stomped lemonade.

TGI Friday’s potato skins
10343 N. Wolfe Rd. (at Hwy. 280), Cupertino, 408-257-2050
www.tgifridays.com
Hold the bacon and the cheese and just bring me a big pile of chopped green onions and extra sour cream. After Macy’s didn’t work out, I moved on to a hostess position at TGI Friday’s and got addicted to these ingenious things. Incidentally, TGI Friday’s fired me for being rude to an even ruder customer, and I found out the next morning that “the customer is always right” – quite a lesson for a full-of-herself 21-year-old girl. About a year ago, I saw the manager who axed me at a restaurant I was reviewing. He recognized me and turned ashen gray, but he breathed a big sigh of relief when I told him that getting fired from TGI Friday’s was one of the best things that ever happened to me.

Ten-ounce lobster tail at Black Angus
1011 Blossom Hill Rd. (at Almaden), San Jose, 408-266-6602,
blackangus.com
The past three years, my dad and his girlfriend, Kickie, have asked me to drive down to San Jose for Thanksgiving. Two years ago, Kickie decided that she didn’t want to make a mess in her kitchen, and instead made reservations at the Black Angus for their all-you-can-eat turkey dinner with all the trimmings. I tried it the first year and decided to order the 10-ounce lobster tail from then on. Turns out, it’s pretty darn good. Not mushy, quite flavorful, good crunch, nice char on the outside – add a squirt of lemon and a tub of drawn butter, and I’m ready to shout “Happy Thanksgiving!” from the Black Angus rooftop.

Lobster and white truffle mac ’n cheese at Circa
2001 Chestnut St. (at Fillmore), 415-351-0175, www.circasf.com

I know it sounds like too much, but trust me, it’s just right. In Executive Chef Erik Hopfinger’s capable hands, this is my new favorite of the oh-so-prevalent “adult mac ’n cheese” entries popping up on small plates menus everywhere. Pasta shells in a surprisingly light, but still gooey, cheese sauce tossed with Maine lobster and just a hint of earthy white truffle. What’s not to like?

Crab angel hair lasagna at the Crab House
203 C, Pier 39 (at Powell), 415-434-2722, crabhouse39.com
My Sicilian grandfather is rolling in his grave at the sight of two crustacean, pasta, and cheese dishes in a row on this list, but I just can’t help it. I’ve been addicted to the crab angel hair lasagna for about four years now. Big squares of baked angel hair, Dungeness crab, and rich béchamel sauce topped with brown, bubbly Parmesan cheese – when I get a craving, I have to head down to Pier 39, or I’ll dream about it for days.

Last Updated ( Wednesday, 22 November 2006 )