Best of Food & Wine 2006
Best of Service
Top of the Line – A 16 | Top of the Line – A 16 |
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| Written by Bill Knutson | |
| Monday, 20 November 2006 | |
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![]() Top of the Line – Chef Nate Appleman (center), Jane Tseng (w/pastry pan), Huw Thornton (w/salami), Beth-Anne Simpkins (w/whisk), Clinton Bertrand (w/proscuitto), Paul Mata (w/pizza peeler), Chris Behr (w/blender), Shelby Kibler (w/rosemary and bread), Miguel Contreras (w/lamb), Felipe Te-Hernandez (w/food mill), Liza Shaw (w/menu), Rae Vasquez (w/vegetable peeler), Will Hoyt (w/meat cleaver) and Fernando Vera (w/cheese knife) We are in the era of the celebrity chef. But, who is really cooking our food? I’m not here to bash any executive chef, but rather honor all of the men and women sweating over the stoves to make their culinary vision a reality.
When choosing who would be the top line cooks in the Northside, I was looking for great food, consistency and most importantly how well they matched the energy and personality of the executive chef. Upon walking into A 16, it is very apparent that this line was truly a team who shares Chef Nate Appleman’s vision.
There is a unique culture in a restaurant kitchen. Those with a need to cook come from all walks of life and they all have different reasons for being there. Some want to be the next Gary Danko, others enjoy the rock star lifestyle or they just enjoy the adrenaline rush of having to serve dinner to 250 people a night. But the one thing that unites them all is their love of food.
This is especially true for the line at A 16. Sit down at the counter for dinner any night and ask about the food. Any of the cooks will enjoy talking about the traditional methods of slow cooking used for most of the dishes. Even after they get off work, the cooks will gather at their favorite watering hole or late night eating establishment and the conversation will usually flow back to the food.
This is a thank you to everyone who has had their hand in making all our meals so special this year at A 16. It is also a tribute and thank you to every line cook who has made San Francisco one of the greatest places on earth to get a bite to eat.
One of the advantages of working at A 16 is the staff meal. Each night the staff picks an item off the menu for their meal and one of the most popular choices is the meatballs. Chef Appleman has been kind enough to share his recipe with you. Meatballs
2½ lbs. ground pork, lamb, or beef Season the meat generously with salt, chili flakes, fennel seed, and oregano. Add the onions, garlic, parsley, and Parmesan. Mix by hand. Put the bread cubes in a food processor; process until finely crumbled. Add the bread and ricotta to the meat; mix by hand. Add milk to achieve a moist, soft texture. Add eggs; continue to mix by hand until eggs are barely incorporated (Don’t over mix). Form into balls; place in an oiled roasting pan and roast at 400° until browned. Remove from roasting pan, discard remaining fat, and place the meatballs in a heavy saucepot. Meatballs can then be braised in any combination of pureed tomatoes, wine, stock, and aromatics. Cook at 300° for 2-3 hours; allow to cool in the braising liquid. Reheat the meatballs in the braising liquid. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan and extra virgin olive oil and serve. |
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| Last Updated ( Saturday, 12 January 2008 ) |