What would come to mind if I were to describe an expert in geography, geology, history, chemistry, botany, law, and psychology, who works in a restaurant? If you guessed someone who is a multiple Ph.D. candidate working to pay off exorbitant student loans that would be close, but no cigar. It would be the sommelier (and they study cigars too) – someone who spends virtually all of his or her free time, including vacations and the rare evenings off (and even mornings) studying, tasting, and thinking about wine to make sure that the rest of us have a grand experience dining out. When I think about enjoying a fabulous meal in a magnificent restaurant, the experience is inextricably intertwined with great wine. In the course of my restaurant ventures, I have tortured many sommeliers with various questions, requests, and demands to satisfy my personal wine idiosyncrasies and preferences. In talking with the top sommeliers in the Bay Area for this feature, I got a glimpse of their highly demanding profession, and learned how truly remarkable, dedicated, and above all, patient, these individuals are. Although the five sommeliers selected as this year’s winners are very different in personality and demeanor, they all seem to share similar personal tastes in wine. For example, they all love sparkling wine, and almost all picked a merlot as their dream wine. But the single universal trait they have in common is that they want their customers to enjoy wine as much as they do.

Sommelier Alan Murray

Alan Murray, Masa’s, 648 Bush St. (at Powell), 415-989-7154, www.masasrestaurant.com

Alan Murray obtained the coveted title of Master Sommelier by the Court of Master Sommeliers in 2005. Fewer than 150 candidates worldwide have earned this distinction, only 74 of whom are in North America. Alan not only oversees the wine program at Masa’s Restaurant, he also teaches and supervises courses given by the Court of Master Sommeliers for others in the service industry seeking to join the ranks. Observing Alan’s quiet demeanor and flawless service is like watching a perfectly choreographed ballet.

What information is helpful for you to have from diners seeking wine advice?
I want to know what people like to drink generally – producer, varietal, style of wine. There is no such thing as too much information.

How do you approach wine pairing?
I work with Chef Short very closely to make sure that everything works together. I also try different combinations even if I initially think something may not work. One time I remember a lobster with espresso and chocolate sauce. That was quite a challenge. It turned out that a pinot gris worked best. Another one was a basil ravioli with cherry tomatoes and parmesan cheese, which I ended up pairing with a sparkling rosé. I like finding new and different combinations.

Was there a particular wine that got you hooked?
I remember a chardonnay from Constable & Hershon in Hunter Valley, Australia, poured by a friend in the restaurant business. It was unlike like anything I had tasted before.

Do you have a daily drinking wine?
When I’m relaxing, I tend to go for the lower alcohol wines. I love German rieslings, like Fred Prinz from Rheingau, both the Kabinett and the Gold Cap Spätlese.

Do you have a favorite type of cuisine?
I like many different styles of food, including Spanish tapas, Asian, and Italian. I get my French fix at Masa’s.

What trends do you see in wine consumption or sales?
The Sideways effect is still in place. I think I sold one bottle of merlot last month, and this month only three. In whites, chardonnay is less popular than it used to be.

What is your dream wine, if price were no object?
I had a taste from a magnum of 1929 Petrus (merlot from Right Bank Bordeaux). It had the flavor and texture of chocolate.

Sommelier Paul Einbund

Paul Einbund, Bacar, 448 Brannan St. (atThird St.), 415-904-4100, www.bacarsf.com

Paul Einbund is an artist and winemaker as well as sommelier at Bacar. In addition to being certified by the Court of Master Sommeliers, Paul has such an intuitive and instinctive sense of flavor, scent, and texture, that his wine pairings alone could add a star to a restaurant’s rating. Being around Paul’s energy and enthusiasm, you can’t help but have a good time, especially when he is picking the wines for your enjoyment.

What information is helpful for you to have from diners seeking wine advice?
First of all, price. I don’t care whether you order a $2 glass or a $1,000 bottle, but I do care that you are happy and come back to see me again, and knowing someone’s price point gives me a lot of information about the possible ranges I can play with. Second, whether someone is looking for something light or something bigger or heavier. Some people care about matching wine with food, others do not. I want to know what people are looking for and what they like.

How do you approach wine pairing?
I think of it as highlighting or showcasing the chef’s food. Sometimes that means matching a particular element or flavor in the dish, like framing a picture, and sometimes that means adding something to exaggerate or bring out the components, like adding a streak of red across a black and white painting. Given my art background, I visualize everything. When I’m drinking wine, I like to look at the label as I smell and taste. The label is part of the artistry of wine and helps imprint the wine in my memory, so when I’m doing a pairing, I can see the flavors and textures of the dish and the wine.

Was there a particular wine that got you hooked?
Lots of people seem to have that, but for me it was a place, not one particular wine. It was the sight of the vineyards, the sound of the crunching gravel road, and the smell of Wine Country air when I first drove through Napa and Sonoma, and I just knew I had to be a part of it. I am currently involved in making a wine with Paul Hobbs, the 2005 vintage, which will be released sometime in 2008.

Do you have a daily drinking wine?
Currently in my refrigerator, I have an open bottle of Pax rosé, a 2004 Toni Jost Bacharacher Hahn riesling Kabinett, a bottle of Compte Audoin de Dampierre Champagne, and several bottles of sake.

Do you have a favorite type of cuisine?
Sushi, dim sum, Vietnamese sandwiches from Out the Door, Slanted Door’s takeout place at the Ferry Building. Actually I love the Ferry Building – Boulette’s Larder, Hog Island Oyster Company, Taylor’s, everything. Oh, and cheeses from Andante dairy.

What trends do you see in wine consumption or sales?
Syrah is huge. Spain and Argentina are also hot. And of course, everyone still wants pinot noir, and merlot consumption is at an unsurpassed low. I find that very funny given that the 1961 Cheval Blanc featured in Sideways is 100 percent merlot.

What is your dream wine, if price were no object?
Let’s see. The 1953, 1959, and 1961 Petrus, 1990 Nikolaihof riesling, 1887 Jadot Montrachet, and 1971 DRC (Domaine de la Romanée Conti) La Tâche.

SommelierWilliam Redberg

William Redberg, Bong Su, 311 Third St. (at Folsom), 415-536-5800, www.bongsu.com

As General Manager of Bong Su, William Redberg’s responsibilities extend beyond sommelier duties, which have been passed on to Peter Greerty. Because William was the mastermind behind the well-crafted wine list at Bong Su (as well as its sister restaurant, Tamarine in Palo Alto) and because his sublime wine pairings with the tricky spices of the varied Vietnamese menu are mind-blowing, he has been selected as this year’s Best Asian food and wine pairing specialist. Once you try William’s recommended rosé with the rich, fragrant Kobe beef pho infused with minty Thai basil, or his pick of an unusual sparkling pear cider with the crab asparagus wontons in spicy coconut milk broth spiked with lime, memories of such harmonious pairings will force you to return to Bong Su again and again.

What information is helpful for you to have from diners seeking wine advice?
I look at what people have ordered and find out what they normally drink. If possible, I like to encourage people to try something new.

How do you approach pairing?
Food and wine are like a marriage. I try to take into account the balance of flavors and spices. Spicy food can be tricky because acid will aggravate spicing. For every dish, I try to have at least two possible wines to match by the glass. In creating the wine list, I tried to balance region, price, and flavor points and then offer different wines from different regions with different profiles.

Was there a particular wine that got you hooked?
I loved Southern Rhone wines – the herbes de provence, marjoram, and thyme scents. They brought me back to my mother’s cooking with all those black and white pepper flavors. Even though I grew up in California, tasting wine is like traveling for me. I also love researching stories behind a wine.

Do you have a daily drinking wine?
I like the crisp acidity of Alsacian cremants or Spanish cava. When I’m relaxing though, my drink of choice is a margarita straight up with salt.

Do you have a favorite type of cuisine?
For me, Mexican food is comfort food. I love Tommy’s (on Geary).

What trends do you see in wine consumption or sales?
Pinot noir is still the number one seller, merlot not as much. Also, with the growing popularity of charcuterie, German wines are becoming quite popular. I see more and more rieslings offered by the glass.

What is your dream wine, if price were no object?
A 1976 Vega Sicilia Unico Ribera Del Duero Gran Riserva. The 1991 vintage is on our list.

Sommelier Andrew Green

Andrew Green, The Village Pub (and coming soon, Spruce in San Francisco), 2967 Woodside Road, Woodside 650-851-9888, www.thevillagepub.net

Andrew Green was instrumental in creating one of the most sophisticated wine service programs I have encountered in the Bay Area. All of the servers at The Village Pub are encouraged to take the intensive two-day introductory course with the Court of Master Sommeliers, the cost of which is reimbursed by the restaurant upon passing the examination. In keeping with the casual sophistication of Chef Mark Sullivan’s elevated pub cuisine, Andrew has developed a wine list that offers something for everyone to suit any occasion. Less than a year after The Village Pub opened, Andrew’s wine program earned the restaurant Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence. His knowledge and passion permeate every part of the wine service at The Village Pub, an asset that he will bring to Spruce, a Parisian style brasserie scheduled to be opened soon in Presidio Heights by the same team.

What information is helpful for you to have from diners seeking wine advice?
I ask people to list their favorite wines. “Dinerspeak” can be different from “sommelierspeak;” for example, “sweet” and “dry” are relative terms that can be misleading. Price range is also helpful although not determinative, especially here at The Pub where we get a lot of regulars. Basically the more information I get the better, including whether they are celebrating something or are looking for something casual. Sometimes this can even help me find something off the list – something that has come in, but has not been added to the wine list yet.

How do you approach wine pairing?
Everyday, we have a preservice lineup with the servers that lasts about 45 minutes to an hour. We try wines by the glass, half bottle, and full bottle with each appetizer and entrée. If people pick something questionable, we talk about their thinking, which helps train them and also allows us to discover something new. We are striving to make wine service second nature on the dining room floor. We also regularly conduct Court of Master Sommelier-style blind tasting with the staff. At the end of the day though, what tastes good to the guest is the right answer.

Was there a particular wine that got you hooked?
I don’t have a recollection of any one wine. After my father moved to Davis in the 1980’s, I came to visit California from the Midwest and toured Napa Valley, and that did it. After college, I moved to Napa Valley and entered an apprentice wine program at Tra Vigne.

Do you have a daily drinking wine?
Actually when I’m not working, I love a good cocktail. I like Dark & Stormy’s and Mojitos. Do you have a favorite type of cuisine? I like simple food – a really good taco, a thin crust pizza, crepes.

What trends do you see in wine consumption or sales?
Before Sideways, I was battling with people to get them to try pinot noir. Now I can’t give away a bottle of merlot. German rieslings are also becoming quite popular.

What is your dream wine, if price were no object?
A 1945 Mouton and 1947 Cheval Blanc (merlot from Right Bank Bordeaux). I have been fortunate enough to try both here at The Pub.

Sommelier Chris Blanchard

Chris Blanchard, Redd, 6480 Washington St., Yountville, 707-944-2222, www.reddnapavalley.com

Chris Blanchard skillfully blends all that the Old World has to offer with the best of Napa Valley, along with other international and local selections, in the extensive yet manageable wine list he has compiled for Redd. Keeping up with Chef Richard Reddington’s ambitious menu is no easy feat, especially with tasting menus offered at both lunch and dinner incorporating flavors and styles from Europe, Asia, California, and Mexico. Yet Chris manages to both highlight and complement each dish effortlessly. No surprise that he passed all three levels of the advanced level examination of the Court of Master Sommeliers on his first try in 2003. He is currently on the tasting panel for Wine & Spirits magazine and is also involved in making his own wine, a cabernet sauvignon named after his son Sam.

What information is helpful for you to have from diners seeking wine advice?
Getting examples of what people like to drink is very helpful. If people tell me they want a chardonnay, whether they like Kendall-Jackson, Pahlmeyer, or Leflaive gives me a whole range of information to work with to find something they would like and maybe something different they could try that they will love. If people want to drink a cabernet with sashimi, that’s fine too. I can take that information and try something that I think could work.

How do you approach wine pairing?
There are lots of different ways to skin a cat, so to speak. Light and setting affects wine, just like looking at a painting or listening to music. So I look at context. The main ingredient of a dish is not as important as the sauce and the flavors. Of course, I personally think Champagne and riesling go with everything, but I will experiment and try probably at least six different wines with each dish, including something wacky. We have such a melting pot of cuisine here that we taste and try everything.

Was there a particular wine that got you hooked?
Everyone seems to have that, so I feel like I need to have one too!

Do you have a daily drinking wine?
ot anything in particular. I honestly love everything. And there is nothing like a good beer. Or Campari, which makes me feel like I’m on vacation in another country.

Do you have a favorite type of cuisine?
Sushi!

What trends do you see in wine consumption or sales?
Biodynamic wines are quite in vogue. I don’t have any personal beliefs about whether it works, but the best thing about the biodynamic trend is that it makes winemakers get into the vineyards and get their hands dirty. As far as varietals, currently the most popular seem to be sauvignon blanc for white and pinot noir for red, although Napa people like Champagne and syrah.

What is your dream wine, if price were no object?
The list at Redd is my dream list of wines. I’d be happy with anything from that list.