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Home arrow Best of Food & Wine 2006 arrow Top Women Chefs arrow 10 Questions with… Chef Gloria Ciccarone-Nehls
10 Questions with… Chef Gloria Ciccarone-Nehls PDF Print E-mail
Written by Susan Dyer Reynolds   
Monday, 20 November 2006
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Executive chef, Big 4 Restaurant, (in the Huntington Hotel) www.huntingtonhotel.com

Upcoming projects: Working on handcrafting salumi, including buffalo and wild boar sopressato (coarse-cut salami) for her popular annual event, Wild Game Week, which takes place November 7 through 11 at the Big 4. The menu will include crispy Cayman crocodile tacos, wood-smoked buffalo short ribs, and pan-seared saddle of caribou.

Fun fact: In her twenties, Ciccarone-Nehls was already executive chef at the Big 4. Actor Cary Grant used to come in often, but said he wouldn’t dine there unless Chef Gloria cooked for him. If she wasn’t at the restaurant, the manager would call her at home and she would ride her bicycle to the Big 4 to cook for Grant.

Last thing you cooked for yourself?
I went to the farmers’ market and got squash blossoms, so I made stuffed squash blossoms, partha (Indian stuffed bread), wild salmon, and a buffalo mozzarella and tomato salad. My husband has a physical job – he likes to eat.

Favorite food from your childhood?
My mom’s veal breast stuffed with white raisins, pine nuts, stale bread, parsley, Parmesan cheese, and lots of eggs. You sew it up, roast it, then you eat it cold. And my mom’s manicotti, made with crepes.

How would you describe working in your kitchen?
Fun and demanding – I try not to take it so seriously and I try to break peoples’ bad moods. We’re like a family here – there’s a lot of loyalty and some have been here 20 years with me. When everything’s clicking, it’s really great in there.

Something in your fridge or freezer at home that would surprise people?
Blood sausage? Or, I do some product consulting so I have these little packages of things like containers of fruit purée. Or maybe elk? No, that’s not weird.

A meal or a dish that, as a young chef, was an inspiration or a revelation?
Fleur de Lys was my first eye-opening experience. Also, Susan Spicer’s duck with red pepper jelly. It was simple, and it made me realize that everything doesn’t have to be contrived.

Last restaurant you ate at besides your own?
Pappo in Alameda because the owner, John Thiel, used to be a manager here, and I like to support a restaurant where I live that has great food.

The dish on your menu that will follow you wherever you go?
Chicken potpie, venison chili, and crab cakes.

Favorite offal?
I like sweetbreads and calf liver, and rabbit kidney when it’s prepared properly – they have to be soaked for a long time. But my very favorite is lamb tongue.

What are your guilty pleasures?
Bondathons. I love James Bond marathons. They’re so sexist, but so funny!

What would your last meal on earth be and where would you have it?
It has to have salt in it. I love salt. Crisp, gorgeous fresh oysters laid on seaweed and a clambake right next to it, and I would be with people I love at sunset on the beach.

Last Updated ( Saturday, 19 January 2008 )