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Home arrow Best of Food & Wine 2006 arrow Top Women Chefs arrow 10 Questions with … Chef Joyce Goldstein
10 Questions with … Chef Joyce Goldstein PDF Print E-mail
Written by Susan Dyer Reynolds   
Monday, 20 November 2006
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Cookbook author, teacher, consultant

Upcoming projects: A book on Mediterranean salads and dressings for Chronicle Books, consulting for a restaurant on the East Coast, food and wine tours, cooking classes.

Fun fact: Goldstein was chef of the Café at Chez Panisse for three years prior to opening her groundbreaking Mediterranean restaurant, Square One, for which she won a James Beard Award as Best Chef: California for 1993. She beat out an up-and-coming chef at the Ritz-Carlton Dining Room by the name of Gary Danko. (Gary won the following year.)

Last thing you cooked for yourself?
Salmon wrapped in grape leaves, rice, and spinach.

Favorite food from your childhood?
I’ve suppressed an awful lot (laughs). I grew up in New York, so I’d have to say lobster at Lundy’s and chocolate Éclairs at Longchamps.

How would you describe working in your kitchen?
I’d say well organized. I can put my hands on anything I need in a millisecond. All the equipment works, it’s clean, and I’m quite short so it’s built for my height. I love my kitchen – I’ve had it for 21 years and it really works.

Something in your fridge or freezer at home that would surprise people?
I don’t have any weird stuff – I have things like soup stock, ice cream I made for my grandkids, and coffee.

A meal or a dish that, as a young chef, was an inspiration or a revelation?
My first time in Italy, I had homemade pasta, fresh butter, peas, and prosciutto – I’d never had pasta that light, butter that creamy, or peas that sweet. It was so good, it could make you cry.

Last restaurant you ate at?
Terzo, and it was very good.

The dish on your menu at Square One that still follows you wherever you go?
Our menu changed daily, but what people usually say is, “I miss your restaurant – it was our favorite! Nothing has taken your place.” A lot of people really loved Square One and still remember it fondly, but after 12 years of 80-hour work weeks, I just couldn’t do it anymore. Favorite offal? Liver – calf, chicken – and I like it rare, like Rosemary’s Baby (smiles), and with lots of onions.

What are your guilty pleasures?
I am the straightest person! My pleasures are not guilty. I eat a lot of cheese and drink good wine – that’s just pleasure. I’ll take it when I can get it … life is grim enough!

What would your last meal on earth be and where would you have it?
Spaghetti alla carbonara right here in my home. It’s Sunday, I’m sitting in my chair, I’ve had my carbonara and I’ve completed the New York Times crossword puzzle. Then I can go out.

Last Updated ( Saturday, 12 January 2008 )