This year’s crop of new restaurants is one of the most diverse in recent memory – there are still a lot of small plates, but there’s also less “fusion,” more honest flavors, and more truly ethnic cuisine. Another trend – lounge food – has been elevated this year as well, not by the complexity of the offerings, but by the toned down simplicity, which is where most lounges completely miss the mark.

My list of this year’s 10 best new Northside restaurants (and two lounges) has some shoe-ins like Coi, but also some surprises like Mediterranean Spirit. And there are some notable absences; for example, neither Bushi Tei nor Citizen Thai & the Monkey, two of the year’s most critically acclaimed restaurants, made the list. I dine at 15 to 20 restaurants per month and choose one for my monthly review, so while I dined at both of these restaurants and liked some things about them, I still had very mixed feelings, even after multiple visits. Of the two, I liked Bushi Tei better, but they received lower marks because they serve Chilean sea bass – also known as the deep water, slow growing Patagonian toothfish – which will be extinct commercially in less than five years due to rampant illegal fishing. In the Bay Area, the U.S. capital of sustainability, a restaurant of this caliber should know better.

Bar Crudo
603Bush St. (at Stockton), 415-956-0396, www.barcrudo.com

I first tasted Mike Selvera’s food at Café Maritime, where he was the opening chef. At the time, I remember thinking that his sensitivity to ingredients, keen sense of seasoning and sleek, modern presentation seemed wasted on what was basically an upscale seafood shack. At Bar Crudo, the diminutive restaurant that he and his twin brother, Tim, opened together, Selvera is able to use all of his skills in dishes like rich cubes of Arctic char with creamy horseradish and dill, and pristine raw scallops with orange, fennel, olive, and mint. While much of the menu focuses on the restaurant’s namesake style, crudo, which is Italian for raw, the few warm offerings, such as seafood chowder with smoky hints of applewood smoked bacon, are also stellar.

California Street Delicatessen & Café
San Francisco Jewish Community Center, 3200 California St. (at Presidio), 415-922-3354, www.californiastreetdeli.com

When I heard that Joyce Goldstein would be the consulting chef at the California Street Deli, I knew San Francisco was about to get something it sorely needed – a place to get authentic Jewish comfort food. Goldstein reaches back to her childhood in Brooklyn, New York for staples like silky chopped chicken liver mixed with morsels of hardboiled egg and topped with crunchy bits of fried skin and onion (known as “gribines”) and fluffy matzo balls in a clear, flavorful chicken broth. For big appetites, the Reuben – lean but juicy corned beef, melted Swiss cheese, sauerkraut and Russian dressing piled high on the best rye bread in town – is a must. Anyone with a hankering for the great Jewish delicatessens of New York will feel right at home at this California Street café, right down to the black and white checkerboard floor and classic marble counter. It definitely brought back a few New York summer childhood memories for me.

Coi
373 Broadway St. (at Sansome), 415-393-9000, www.coirestaurant.com

There are nearly a dozen essential oils and plant extracts on the menu at Daniel Patterson’s innovative eatery, one of the most interesting restaurants to open in ages (Winterland was another inventive restaurant that opened and, unfortunately, closed, this year). Choose the eleven-course tasting menu with seasonal dishes ranging from asparagus with ravigote sauce to breaded pigs’ feet medallions stuffed with herbs and fried crisp. A salad of Cognac, grapefruit, and tarragon topped with grapefruit mousse, black pepper, and ginger, arrives with the same aromatic oils to be dabbed on the wrist for a unique interactive experience. A small piece of sautéed bone marrow, topped with California osetra caviar and served with a swirl of beet gelée, was one of the best bites I’ve ever taken. Scallop sashimi is dressed with lemon and olive oil, shaved curls of just-ripe avocado, paper-thin radishes, edible flowers and sea salt; refreshing chilled English pea soup cradles a scoop of ricotta sorbet and mint; sautéed sea bream, set atop Korean-style pork belly, is drizzled with litsea cubeba, a lemon-scented oil from China. Patterson could have easily gotten lost in the fantasy and Coi would have become another too-coy pretentious theme restaurant, but the food stands firmly on its own.

Fogón
659 Union St. (at Columbus), 415-288-8658, (No Web site)

Finding Fogón felt like discovering a true neighborhood gem. Architect Michael Brennan transformed the tiny room (formerly Gira Polli) into a cozy respite with rust-hued faux ostrich banquettes and soft wheat walls. The wood-fired fogón – a behemoth rotisserie imported from Sicily – came with the room and gives the restaurant its name. Chef Gil Milan dishes out California cuisine with Latin leanings such as a classic chile relleno, a tender Anaheim chile stuffed with three cheeses and served with homemade sofrito sauce. Even something as simple as a wedge of iceberg lettuce rises above the ordinary with hunks of fresh Maytag blue cheese and housemade garlic-buttermilk dressing. I’ve had my fill of crab cakes, which seem to be on every menu these days, but Milan’s are crisp outside while inside a mixture of fresh crab, onions, bell peppers, and pimentos remains moist. The famous oven comes into play for the crisp-skinned juicy chicken and, on Friday and Saturday nights, Milan offers flavorful, juicy, slow-roasted prime rib with two sides for under $25, one of The City’s best meal deals.

Hime
2353 Lombard St. (at Scott), 415-931-7900, www.himerestaurant.com

Owners Eiichi Mochizuki and Koji Kikura wanted to bring authentic Japanese food to San Francisco and present it in a beautiful, tranquil space. Mission accomplished – the interior is unrecognizable from its days as the Marketplace Café. The attention to detail, such as a window separating the cozy bar from the dining room that features perfect circles of real bamboo set into the glass, matches the pristine sashimi, which arrives in a bowl full of ice lighted from beneath with cool cobalt blue light. The fish comes fresh from Japan and executive chef Kunihiro Kinda is as fresh from Japan as the fish. While there are a few rolls named after insects, mythical creatures, and states (spider, dragon, California) for those diners craving Americanized sushi, the focus at Hime is traditional dishes like the Japanese Garden, a long white platter of beautiful pickled vegetables. For the really adventurous, there are off-the-menu items like bonito stomach mixed with fresh squid – a salty, slippery delight for the senses.

Mamacita
2317 Chestnut St. (at Scott), 415-346-8494, www.mamacitasf.com

On a party street like Chestnut, it could be tempting to open a place that serves cheap, mediocre food and rakes in the dough from strong margaritas, so I didn’t have high hopes for Mamacita. But after one visit, executive chef Sam Josi’s food won me over. In May, Mamacita ran away with first place in the Northside Taco Taste-off, with slow-cooked Niman Ranch pulled pork piled on housemade tortillas and topped with grilled corn shaved right off the cob, spunky salsa verde, and perfectly ripe avocado. Josi cooked at Slanted Door and he approaches Mexican food similarly to the way Charles Phan approaches Vietnamese food – classic dishes made from fresh ingredients with a dash of California flair. Josi’s traditional quesadillas, which resemble empanadas, are made from fresh masa every morning and stuffed with epazote, sweet pepper rajas, and cheddar. Chilaquiles casi listos are perfect for sharing with a group – a huge portion of warm tortilla chips tossed with chipotle cream, roasted chicken, sweet pepper rajas, and scallions. Most of the produce comes from Oak Hill Farm, which Josi’s family owns, so fresh seasonal ingredients are top priority at Mamacita, and it shows in every dish.

Mediterranean Spirit
1303 Polk St. (at Bush), 415-673-4900, (no Web site)

I first heard about Mediterranean Spirit from a Middle Eastern friend who told me they had the best hummus in town. Khalil and Lubna Aboudamous hail from Jerusalem and say they simply wanted to share the food they loved. They opened their little café in Polk Gulch about nine months ago, serving fresh, home-cooked, traditional dishes like baba ghanoush, tabouleh and, true to my friend’s word, the best hummus I’ve had in The City. They use only the highest quality ingredients and all of the meat is halal, meaning it was prepared under the strict guidelines of Muslim law (which includes extremely hygienic facilities and quick, humane slaughter). Everything is whipped up fresh, including velvety, peppery lentil soup, fool mudamas (dried fava bean stew), and a wonderful vegetarian sampler that includes two falafel, two dolmas, baba ghanoush, tabouleh, and hummus for just $7.95. I especially liked the big, moist falafel, stuffed into warm, thick pita fresh off the grill and doused with creamy yogurt sauce brightened with lots of Italian parsley and lemon. Lamb shawarma is also exceptional, made with juicy, nicely seasoned, 100 percent lamb ground fresh daily.

Myth Café
490 Pacific Ave. (at Montgomery), 415-677-8986, www.mythsf.com

Myth was a no-brainer for last year’s list of best new restaurants and now the six degrees of Gary Danko expands next door to Myth Café. Myth’s executive chef, Sean O’Brien (who also made my list of best new chefs last year) trained with Danko for more than a decade (and credits him with much of his cooking prowess today). Another Danko alum, Ryan Scott, helms the kitchen at Myth, where he serves a simple menu of dressed up deli classics that utilize the seasonal, local ingredients the Bay Area is best known for. Decadently creamy carrot-ginger soup is topped with crispy sweetbreads for unexpected texture and a cool dollop of mint cream adds a refreshing finish. You can’t go wrong with deviled eggs – so simple and yet so satisfying and crowned with a thick wedge of smoky bacon, Hungarian paprika, and chives. The signature sandwich is definitely Sid’s Roast Beef – succulent, rare beef sliced thin, piled on a soft, toasted baguette and topped with horseradish-Meyer lemon aioli, fontina cheese, and crispy shallots. Fontina has always been one of my favorite cheeses because it melts beautifully and has a slightly earthy, grassy taste that held its own with the tart aioli and full-flavored roast beef. But I also enjoyed other sandwiches, like the Cuban pulled pork panino with ham, Swiss cheese, and poblano aioli. Myth Café is one of those places that, if I worked nearby, I would eat there every day.

Scott Howard
500 Jackson St. (at Montgomery), 415-956-7040, www.scotthowardsf.com

When Scott Howard left his popular San Anselmo restaurant, Fork, to open his eponymous restaurant in San Francisco, foodies throughout The City rejoiced, but the menu was a bit too highbrow and pricey for people who were expecting his simple, but wonderful fare from Fork. Howard wisely overhauled the menu to include more homey favorites at lower prices and the formula has paid off. I still adore his carrot broth, tinged with curry and garnished with cream fraiche and truffle oil (he kindly gives you the recipe with your check), but also stellar are the braised pork belly, the sweetbreads, and the beef cheeks. A selection of raw smoked and cured seafood starts off the list as the menu moves from lighter starters to the bigger main courses (like lamb loin with fresh mustard greens and fresh cranberry beans). For dessert, I’m a sucker for his perfectly gritty butterscotch pudding with caramelized bananas.

Terzo

Terzo
3011 Steiner St. (at Union), 415-441-3200, www.terzosf.com

Terzo’s menu changes so frequently that it’s hard to keep up, but everything I’ve tasted there on numerous visits has been tremendous. The space has transformed into a beautiful, bright European bistro with tall, light-welcoming windows, a communal oak high-top table, brown leather banquettes, a cozy brick fireplace, and mod Edison filament light bulbs suspended from the ceiling. Though Terzo has all the trappings of a Marina hot spot, the crowd is a nice mix of neighborhood regulars, families, business folk, and fashionistas. The ever-changing seasonal menu features an array of dishes perfect for sharing: burrata and house-cured salumi; fluffy, moist ricotta and green garlic soufflé; rare slices of roasted Niman Ranch beef served with brown, crispy potatoes; and the delicately flavored, creamy boudin blanc sausage. The gnocchi alla Romana isn’t the little pasta pillows of potato you’re expecting, but rather a custardy semolina square, almost cheesecake-like in texture, in a Niman Ranch beef ragù. On another visit, I ordered marrow bones and the unctuous fat nestled deep inside was worthy of scooping every last bit. Terzo also offers an impressive list of vegetarian options like the fennel à la Grecque – braised fennel tossed with olives, oregano, and a perfectly soft-cooked egg. The crispy onions are without compare and make for a great snack with a nice glass of wine on a rainy evening.

Lounging Around

(415) Asian Restaurant & Lounge
415 Presidio Ave. (at California), 415-409-0400, www.restaurant415.com

It’s interesting to note that both picks for best new lounge food morphed out of other restaurant concepts. (415) used to be Sydney’s (and before that, Home), but the chic Asian feel works much better for the space. The food also suits executive chef John Beardsley’s skills better, allowing him to focus on his passion, Pan-Asian cuisine. His menu includes everything from noodles and dumplings to curries, satays, and skewers. I loved the golden pineapple – fresh chunks of pineapple served with a lime and chili salt – that Beasley discovered while eating street food in Thailand. Spicy ground lamb samosas come with wonderful date-vanilla chutney. Biting into the flaky triangles of pastry releases the steam, redolent with coriander. Beardsley’s five-hour braised beef short ribs were a hit at Sydney’s and he prepares his coconut braised version here – the greaseless meat falls off the bone and the chili glaze is just gooey and sweet enough, while citrus from the spiced Meyer lemons dissolves any residual gaminess from the tender Chinese-style crispy duck. (415) also boasts a sushi chef creative enough to compensate for the restaurant’s kosher-compliance (it is housed in the same building as the Jewish Community Center) – while you won’t find unagi or ebi, you will find foie gras with tuna drizzled with a tangerine-galangal-teriyaki sauce and sparkling fresh fish.

Circa
2001 Chestnut St. (at Fillmore), 415-351-0175, www.circasf.com

Recently opened Circa used to be Cozmo’s Grill, which received our “most improved” award in last year’s “Best of Northside Food and Wine” issue for hiring the talented Erik Hopfinger as executive chef. But Cozmo’s never seemed to know what it wanted to be when it grew up – a restaurant or a sports bar. Wisely, the ownership decided to go another direction and turned it into a lounge with food, which suits Hopfinger’s style and the space much better. The new design doesn’t feel as separated, either – the room flows from the main dining area to the bar much better than before. Beautiful, oversized black and white photographs of flowers float on backlit screens and glass beads drip from the ceiling, catching light and reflecting off the warm hues of browns and grays on the walls. The food is classic Hopfinger – creative yet accessible and full of flavor. At Circa you can order fun, comforting bites like Dungeness crab “tater tots” – a fun riff on the kids’ classic – little crab croquettes that substitute béchamel sauce for whipped potatoes. Sliders are so overdone these days and usually so is the meat inside the bun, but the Circa sliders, stuffed with black truffle and brie cheese, are juicy and medium rare. I also liked that the buns were soft – a hamburger, diminutive or not, should never be served on a bun that is harder than the meat it encases. Baby back riblets arrive at the table a la flambé, braised in dark rum and orange juice and served with a grilled pineapple barbecue sauce. And there are no words to describe the lobster and white truffle mac ’n cheese – I was skeptical, too, but it works. Chunks of tender Maine lobster match the richness of the earthy truffle and the pasta shells serve as little scoops to hold the cheese sauce, which is surprisingly light compared to most mac ’n cheese dishes. Of all the lounges that have opened over the past few years, I feel like Circa really gets it on the food level – people don’t want to come to a dark, hip room and fight with small plates filled with fancy food created by a chef aspiring to be the next Roland Passot. They want delicious food that’s easy to eat and meshes effortlessly with the drinks, the music, and the vibe.