Home Food & Wine The Kitchenless Cook Don't Fear the Mollusk

Don't Fear the Mollusk

Written by Bill Knutson

Sunday, 31 July 2005

Recipe for clam chowder fromHog Island Oyster Bar. Fresh clams bring le go&ucirct de la mer to your favorite pastas and soups Live clams are often overlooked in favor of their more glamorous cousins, oysters and mussels. Yet, their texture and natural saltiness can lift most soups and pasta dishes from mundane to masterpieces. The shells intimidate many people, but clams are very easy to cook. They were born with a built-in timer: when the shells pop all the way open they are done. The key for any clam dish is to cook the clams just prior to serving the dish or the clams become overcooked and chewy. And always remember to have an empty bowl on the table for shells. My first encounter with clams began in the early stages of my culinary journey with a very quick and simple clam and garlic pasta sauce made with canned clams. This recipe has survived in my repertoire with very few modifications, the most significant being the replacement of the canned clams with live ones. Two varieties that work well in any of these recipes, Manila and littlenecks, are farmed locally and are readily available in most markets. You can also buy ultra fresh Manila clams at the Hog Island Oyster Bar at the Ferry Building. The Manila clams are smaller, with a better meat-to-shell ratio, but can be more labor-intensive to eat. The littlenecks have a little firmer texture and are also excellent served on the half shell. Clam chowder comes in two basic varieties – creamy New England and tomato-based Manhattan. The ongoing debate over which is better rivals the feud between Red Sox and Yankee fans. For diplomatic reasons, I will present both equally and let you decide. For the New England chowder, I visited my friends at the Hog Island Oyster Bar in the Ferry Building Market Plaza. Chef Kevin Scott was kind enough to walk me through their clam chowder recipe. This is not your stand-your-spoon-up-in-the-bowl style chowder that has been simmering and thickening all day. The stock is made in advance, with the clams and cream added at the end for a lighter texture and more tender clams. If you don’t feel like making it at home, be sure to stop by some afternoon for a bowl of their delicious chowder buried under a mound of their farm-raised Manila clams. Now for all you Yankee fans, I will give you my recipe for hearty Manhattan style chowder. This robust soup is the perfect thing to warm you up on a typical San Francisco summer night. I love making soups like this because of the warm inviting aromas that fill the house. What better way to welcome friends or family into your home? My last recipe, miso soup with clams and mushrooms, makes a great starter for a meal and is perfect when you want the flavor of clams and only need to make a few servings. Cheers, Bill Angel Hair with Clams 1 lb. live clams 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup white wine 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper 1 tablespoon chopped garlic 1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley pound angel hair pasta In a skillet, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add oil and garlic. Heat until garlic is cooked but not browned. Add wine, parsley and red pepper. Bring to a boil and add clams. Meanwhile, cook pasta according to instructions. When clams open completely, remove from heat and serve over pasta. Serves 2. * * * New England Clam Chowder (From Hog Island Oyster Bar) 4 slices bacon cut in 1-inch pieces cup sliced leeks 1 tablespoon butter cup sliced celery cup sliced carrots 2 teaspoons fresh chopped thyme 4 Yukon gold potatoes cut in 1-inch cubes 1 tablespoon olive oil cup chopped fennel pound fillet of sole or other white fish (use fish bones from a white fish) cup white wine 4 lbs. Manila clams 8 ounces of cream Italian parsley and pepper for garnish Place potatoes in a 2-quart saucepan and cover with water. Boil until tender. Meanwhile, combine bacon, cup leeks and butter in a skillet over medium heat until tender. Do not crisp the bacon. Add celery, carrots and thyme and heat until tender. Combine with potatoes. In 3-quart saucepan, combine olive oil, remainder of the leeks and the fennel. Heat over medium flame until tender. Add fish and wine. Raise heat and cook until the wine has reduced by at least half. Add 4 quarts of water and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and strain through cheesecloth. Add to bacon/potato mixture. In a medium skillet add 1 cup of above mixture and bring to a low boil. Add 1 pound of clams and heat until clams all open. Add 2 tablespoons cream and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and serve. Garnish with parsley and black pepper. Repeat for each serving. Serves 4. * * * Manhattan Clam Chowder 4 thick slices of pancetta (about 1/3 pound), cut in 1-inch pieces 10-oz. can whole baby clams 1 cup white wine cup chopped Italian parsley 6 small Yukon gold potatoes cut in 1-inch cubes 2 stalks celery in -inch slices 1 chopped onion 4 bay leaves 2 teaspoons thyme 3 teaspoons black pepper 2 teaspoons crushed red pepper 6 medium tomatoes chopped in 1-inch cubes 2 teaspoons salt 4 pounds Manila or littleneck clams In a large pot, heat the bacon until soft. Add celery and onion. Heat until soft. Add canned clams (with juice), wine, 2 cups water, parsley, potatoes and bay leaves. Raise heat and boil until potatoes are tender. Add thyme, pepper, tomatoes and salt. Reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Add fresh clams and heat until all are open. Serve with slightly toasted sourdough bread. Serves 4 to 6. * * * Miso Soup with Clams and Mushrooms pound crimini mushrooms, quartered cup chopped green onions 2 tablespoons miso paste 1 pound littleneck clams pound spinach (optional) In 2-quart saucepan, add mushrooms and 1 quart of water. Bring to a boil. In a small bowl, add the miso and half cup of hot water from the pan. Stir the miso paste and water until liquefied and return to the saucepan. Stir well. Add green onions, spinach (if desired) and clams. Heat until clams open completely and serve. Serves 2. Bill has been a grillmeister for over 20 years. You can email your recipe questions to him at This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it

Last Updated ( Saturday, 12 January 2008 )