Home Food & Wine Food Wine 2005 FIRST ANNUAL BEST OF NORTHSIDE FOOD, continued

FIRST ANNUAL BEST OF NORTHSIDE FOOD, continued

Written by Susan Dyer Reynolds

Wednesday, 31 August 2005

FIVE BEST WAYS TO START A MEAL Mozzarella burrata at A16 2355 Chestnut St. (415) 771-2216 This is quite possibly the world’s most perfect starter, at least for an Italian girl. The mozzarella burrata arrives with just a drizzle of olive oil, a sprinkle of sea salt, and crunchy crostini to spread it on. Burrata is a fresh soft cheese originating from Puglia, delicately sweet with a slightly sour aftertaste. Cutting into the thin shell of cow’s milk mozzarella allows the inside of heavy cream and unraveled mozzarella curd, called stracciatella, to ooze out. I would describe the unusual texture as similar to the white of a poached egg, but the taste is a treat like no other. Salt cod brandade at Luella 1896 Hyde St. (415) 674-4343 A homey, belly-warming mixture of preserved cod and creamy mashed potatoes topped with bread crumbs and served nice and hot with a generous dollop of lemon a&iumloli. Vietnamese crispy rolls at Ana Mandara Ghirardelli Square, 891 Beach St. (415) 771-6800 Chef Khai Duong’s crispy rolls filled with crabmeat, shrimp, and shiitake mushrooms are a modern take on the classic. Served with lettuce to wrap them in and sweet and sour fish sauce for dipping, these bite-sized nuggets aren’t a bit greasy and they’re full of flavor. Fried smelts at Estia 1224 Grant St. (415) 433-1433 As a kid, my grandfather and I would polish off a whole basket of fried smelts or anchovies on a summer afternoon, so a platter of crunchy little fish is always a welcome sight. A shake of sea salt and a squeeze of lemon is all you need for a treat more addictive than Lay’s Classic potato chips, and I guarantee you can’t eat just one. The Honeymoon at Sushi on North Beach 745 Columbus Ave. (415) 788-8050 A creamy Kumamoto oyster on the half shell topped with fresh uni, a quail egg, and a sprinkle of crunchy tobiko. Enough said. BEST HUNKS … OF MEAT Best steak: Bobo’s Bone-in filet mignon 1450 Lombard St. (415) 441-8880 Dry-aged prime beef is pan-seared with a hint of garlic and rosemary to create a crispy caramelized exterior that keeps the juices locked inside. The bone makes this far less common cut a lot more flavorful than its boneless brethren. Most overrated steak: Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 1601 Van Ness Ave. (415) 673-0557 Part of a worldwide chain with more than 100 restaurants, Ruth’s Chris on Van Ness Avenue delivers a decent if inconsistent steak definitely not worthy of the worship. On my most recent visit, the oddly dome-shaped filet mignon, popularized by a taxi-top advertising campaign, was grayish in color with nary a char mark to be found and a discernable lack of flavor. Best prime rib: Harris’ 2100 Van Ness Ave. (415) 1888 That’s right, Harris’ beat out nearby neighbor the House of Prime Rib, and it wasn’t even close. There’s no doubt that the House is a San Francisco tradition, but lately it seems they’re resting on their considerable laurels – on my last three visits, the meat was tough and sinewy. The prime rib at Harris’, however, was a thick slab of tender, juicy, medium-rare perfection. Best burger: Burgermeister 759 Columbus Ave. (415) 296-9907 This classic, high-quality burger is the best in town – a hand-formed eight-ounce Niman Ranch beef patty flame-grilled to order, served on a soft sesame-seed bun and garnished simply with lettuce, tomato, and red onion. BEST SEAFOOD Overall: Yabbies Coastal Kitchen 2237 Polk St. (415) 474-4088 This lively Russian Hill staple is packed to the gills every night with locals who come for the wide array of fresh fish and shellfish. The sleek ice bar offers a daily selection of oysters, clams, shrimp, and crab perfect for appetizers or a light meal. Best raw bar: Swan Oyster Depot 1517 Polk St. (415) 673-1101 Swan has been serving fresh no-frills seafood since 1912, and I doubt there’s a person in San Francisco who hasn’t heard of it. Sitting at the tiny counter bantering with the guys as they shuck fresh oysters is one of the best possible ways to spend a lazy afternoon. Best Dungeness crab dish: “Killer Crab” at The Crab House Pier 39 (415) 434-2722 Even the Food Network has come for the “Killer Crab” at Pier 39’s Crab House, featuring chef Andrea Froncillo’s recipe for roasted Dungeness crab drizzled with messy but addictive garlic butter on the series The Best Of. Best Manhattan clam chowder: Fisherman’s Grotto #9 9 Fisherman’s Wharf, Jefferson at Taylor (415) 673-7025 I’ve been going to Grotto #9 as long as I can remember. You can’t beat the views of the Golden Gate, and the Manhattan chowder — fresh clams and tender potatoes in a creamy, not-too-thick tomato bisque — the best in The City. Best New England clam chowder: Cliff House Bistro 1090 Point Lobos Ave. (415) 386-3330 The Cliff House is one of San Francisco’s greatest treasures, and it still serves its trademark creamy but not-too-thick New England clam chowder, chock-full of tender clams accented with bits of potato and celery and just a hint of tarragon. Best crab cakes: Café Maritime 2417 Lombard St. (415) 885-2530 No filler, just moist mounds of Dungeness crab lightly breaded, pan-fried until golden brown and topped with a roasted salsa of fresh corn and delicious avocado-Dijon guacamole. Best fish and chips: Piccadilly1345 Polk St. (415) 771-6477 This Polk Street hole-in-the-wall serves the best fish and chips in The City and the prices are dirt cheap to boot. Generous pieces of flaky white cod are battered and fried golden brown, and the thick-cut chips are prepared proper English style – double-fried, once lightly and again just before serving — so they are crisp on the outside and tender in the middle. BEST PIZZA While all food is personal, pizza is perhaps the most personal of all. Some like it thick, some like it thin, some prefer deep-dish … I’m a thin-crust girl, myself, but I also appreciate that the other styles have their place. One of my pet peeves is hearing people try to compare San Francisco pizza to New York pizza, because there is no comparison. I remember going to Lombardi’s in New York’s Little Italy as a kid and watching them pull pies from the blasting heat of the 900-degree oven – it was the best pizza I ever tasted. They top it with fresh mozzarella, the sauce is just a tad sweet, and the dough – light and crusty, black and blistered – is as good as it gets. When Gennaro Lombardi started serving bread baked with tomato sauce and mozzarella in 1905, he not only established the first licensed pizzeria in the U.S., he also set the standard for the perfect slice. I would never visit New York without visiting Lombardi’s, but their pizza isn’t typical. To me, a typical New York pizza is chewy and thin enough to fold into a libretto (little book) so you can walk while you eat, trails of yellow oil dripping down your wrist (which comes from the high butterfat cheese they use, most often grated Grande mozzarella). Urban legend says the hard water in New York is what makes it unique. But I think what makes pizza in New York unique is that you’re eating it in New York, and let’s face it, that’s a hell of a city. Best overall pizza: A16 2355 Chestnut St. (415) 771-2216 Back in Baghdad by the Bay, “Neapolitan style” pizzerias are popping up all over the place. A16’s Christophe Hille went to Naples, the birthplace of pizza as we know it, and became a certified pizzaiolo, but the humble Hille won’t take credit for the recent spate of Neapolitan pizzerias. “Craig Stoll has been planning Pizzeria Delfina for a long time and same with Bruce Hill with Pizzeria Picco,” he says. “We just opened first.” He also says that while he learned the basics from his courses in Naples, it is the experience of making on average 100 pizzas a day for a year and a half that taught him the most. “We played with the amount of yeast, oil, and salt, figured out the dough is best when made two days in advance – mostly technical baking stuff,” he explains. “It’s only been the last six months that I feel like we’re making the best pizza we’ve ever made.” I have to agree with Hille’s assessment. I had a Margherita at A16 the first month it opened and was blown away, but on a recent visit, I was stunned to find it even better – the crust is gloriously thin and chewy with a crisp, bubbly, irregular cornichone (the edge or lip of the pizza). Pools of olive oil glisten amid full moons of silky white mozzarella and bright red tomatoes – this is a slice of heaven. Best family-style pizza: Tomasso’s 1042 Kearny St. (415) 398-9696 Perhaps there is more gourmet pizza and better pizza in San Francisco these days, but there’s always been a lot of pizza. North Beach institution Tomasso’s (originally called Lupo’s) was opened in 1935 by a family of immigrants from Naples and had the West Coast’s first wood-fired brick pizza. The crust at Tommaso’s was thin and charred long before it was chic, and it hasn’t changed much in 70 years. The Super Deluxe – mushrooms, anchovies, peppers, ham and sausage – is a favorite, but the clam and garlic is a classic. Best pizza by the slice: Za Pizza 1919 Hyde St. (415) 771-3100 This laid-back little Russian Hill spot is one of the Northside’s best kept secrets, and the slices are the best deal in town – they’re humongous, hot, fresh, and cheap. In fact, a slice at Za is the equivalent of half a pizza at some places. Choose from three or four daily specials on the chalkboard, or try the excellent cheese or pepperoni versions, which are always available. I’m usually not a fan of cornmeal crusts, but Za uses just enough to give it some grit, which is oddly appealing. I like my pies simple, but a friend swears by the Potesto – slices of red-skinned potato sprinkled liberally with black pepper and nestled into gooey mozzarella and pesto sauce. Best pizza for delivery: Viva Pizza 318 Columbus Ave. (415) 989-8482 The thing about delivery is that the crust rarely holds up and you end up with a soggy mess. At Viva, they make a medium-thick crust that stays crisp. When Viva opened in North Beach over 20 years ago, they were one of the first restaurants to experiment with gourmet toppings like feta, sun-dried tomatoes, artichokes, avocado and grilled chicken. Like I said, I’m a thin-crust girl and I like my pies simple, but I like the pizza at Viva – the cooks use superfresh ingredients and they never skimp. Try the Vegetarian Classic with mushrooms, onions, olives, bell peppers, and fresh tomatoes, or the Four Sausage, which is loaded with hot and mild fennel and Italian sausage and fresh mushrooms. Best guilty pleasure pizza: North Beach Pizza 1499 Grant Ave., 1310 Grant Ave. (415) 433-2444 You want a slice you can fold in half that drips down your arm? Then North Beach Pizza is your place. The crust is chewy, but not too chewy, and thin, but not too thin. Most importantly, it’s loaded with cheese – fresh, thick, gooey mozzarella that strings out almost the length from hand to mouth before snapping in two. At almost any other pizzeria, this volume of cheese would constitute a double item order and, in fact, the first time I ordered from North Beach Pizza, I thought they made a mistake and I was getting away with something. Whenever I’m feeling stressed-out or I need a break from small plates, I call in a “small thin with green onions and bell peppers.” BEST SANDWICHES Best overall: Giordano Bros. 303 Columbus Ave. (415) 397-2767 I had my first “All-In-One” sandwich the week Giordano Bros. opened in North Beach, and I knew it would be a hit. Who doesn’t like a pile of grilled meat topped with provolone, vinegary slaw, and cut-to-order french fries tucked between two thick soft slices of custom-baked bread from the Italian French Bakery? The secret is the oil and apple cider vinegar coleslaw, which imparts a tangy zip to the crispy fries. The bread is soft but it never goes soggy, and the sandwiches are much lighter than you might expect. The East Coast blood coursing through my veins craves the wonderful hot coppa, but the Italian sausage, lean pastrami, and smoked turkey work, too. Breakfast sandwich: Viking’s Giant Subs 1418 Lombard St. (415) 673-5619 A flaky croissant topped with a warm egg and two kinds of melted cheese is my idea of heaven, at least at nine o’clock in the morning. You can also have it on an English muffin or add slices of bacon or ham. They make it fresh so it takes a little longer than the preassembled sandwiches at Burger King, but not to worry: There’s a 10-minute parking zone right out front. Philly cheese steak: Jake’s Steaks 3301 Buchanan St. (415) 922-2211 You know it’s a good sign when half the people chowing down at a cheese steak joint are from Philly. Diehards are flocking to fellow Philadelphian Jake Gillis’ place for an authentic take on the sandwich they miss most: sliced rib eye grilled up with onions, topped with authentic Cheez Whiz and loaded into a soft Amoroso roll, with sweet or hot peppers on the side. French dip: Houston’s 1800 Montgomery St. (415) 392-9280 Once you taste the prime rib french dip at Houston’s, you’ll never be able to eat another one of those stale rolls full of leathery, steamed, brownish meat stuff. At Houston’s, ample slices of medium-rare daily roasted prime rib are loaded into a soft roll and served with au jus. Tip: For an extra kick, ask your server to leave the mayo out and bring a side of creamed horseradish instead. Crab sandwich: Crab Jack at Palermo Deli 1556 Stockton St. (415) 362-9892 Dungeness crab salad topped with Monterey Jack cheese on Liguria Bakery’s famous focaccia bread served hot off the griddle. Reuben: Sydney’s 415 Presidio Ave. (415) 409-0400 People talk about the giant Reuben at East Coast West Deli, but the Reuben at Sydney’s proves that bigger isn’t always better. Not that the Reuben at Sydney’s is small by any means, but it’s got a lot of quality to go along with the quantity – toasted marbled rye bread stacked with lean corned beef, Swiss cheese, and tart sauerkraut. Chicken salad: La Cucina 2136 Union St. (415) 921-4500 No filler, no frills – just minced chicken and mayo on white toast with iceberg lettuce. BLT: U Street Restaurant & Lounge 1980 Union St. (415) 409-0150 The guys at U Street put the name of the restaurant in front of this BLT as if they knew it was destined to become the signature of their weekend brunch menu. The U Street BLT isn’t your mama’s bacon, lettuce and tomato – Monterey Jack cheese and a fried egg top it off, and crisp fries are alongside for sopping up any yolk that hits the plate. Tuna melt: Judy’s Café 2268 Chestnut St. (415) 922-4588 The tuna melt at Judy’s Café is more like a grilled cheese with tuna - two kinds of cheese generously melted over tuna salad, griddled, and served with fresh fruit to ease your guilt. Vietnamese sandwich: Vietnam Restaurant 620 Broadway St. (415) 788-7034 A warm crusty French roll stuffed with shredded carrots, cucumbers, onions, cilantro, jalape&ntildeo peppers and your choice of barbecued five-spice chicken or roasted pork sprinkled with a sweet-and-sour sauce. It’s big enough to make two meals and it’s under $3. Falafel sandwich: Wilbur’s 2211 Filbert St. (415) 563-3544 Vegetarian burgers with lettuce, tomato, and onion wrapped in a soft pita – this is the freshest falafel sandwich you’ll find. I skip the traditional tahini sauce in favor of the creamy cucumber yogurt dressing. Wilbur’s is one of the best kept secrets in Cow Hollow. Tip: Because it’s made to order it takes a while, so call ahead. Sausage sandwich and meatball sandwich: Original U.S. Restaurant 515 Columbus Ave. (415) 397-5200 I’m all for nuovo italiano, but when I want italiano classico I head for U.S. Restaurant. The Italian sausage is topped with grilled red, green and yellow bell peppers and sweet marinara sauce, while the meatball version has two peach-sized meatballs and just the right amount of tangy marinara cradled in a crunchy, hollowed-out roll. And in case you get a craving at a Giants game, U.S. sells their meatball sandwiches at SBC Park as well. FIVE FAVORITE SOUPS Vegetable soup: Eliza’s 2877 California St. (415) 621-4819 Eliza’s is famous for its healthy, modern take on Chinese food, and the vegetable soup is no exception – a bowl full of fresh seasonal vegetables like lotus root, two or three varieties of mushrooms, and asparagus floating in a peppery vegetable broth. Artichoke soup with shaved pecorino: Luella 96 Hyde St. (415) 674-4343 Thick and creamy, rich and satisfying – what more could you ask from a soup? DeVries changes his menu often, so get it while you can. Chicken albondigas soup: Impala 501 Broadway St. (415) 982-5299 “Rock n’ roll chef” Kerry Simon’s lighter take on the Mexican classic is scented with coriander and full of moist chicken meatballs. Won ton soup: Dragon Well 2142 Chestnut St. (415) 474-6888 I just feel healthier after I eat this soup – delicate pasta purses stuffed with a mix of lean pork, scallion and spinach in a greaseless chicken broth topped with fresh mushroom slices and bright green spinach. Unlike most Chinese restaurants where you have to order it by the gallon, Dragon Well’s won ton delight is just enough as an appetizer for two or a light lunch for one, and it’s under $4. Carrot-ginger soup with lime créme fraiche: Tartare 550 Washington St. (415) 434-3100 Even after he changes the name of the restaurant to George, I hope Chef Morrone won’t leave his signature soups off the menu. And none deserves to be there more than his velvety carrot-ginger version. FIVE FAVORITE PASTAS Aglio e olio at Vivande 2125 Fillmore St. (415) 346-4430 Al dente spaghetti lightly coated with good-quality olive oil and flecked with garlic and red pepper flakes – it may sound simple, but it’s not simple to get the balance just right. I make this at home all the time, but I must confess it always seems a bit off. When I want aglio e olio just like my mama’s, I head to Vivande. Pappardelle with rabbit sauce at Firenze by Night 1429 Stockton St. (415) 392-8585 Tuscan native Sergio Giusti’s award-winning dish boasts large ribbons of al dente noodles in a rich rabbit sauce that manages to be rich but never heavy. “Black and white” at Ristorante Cinque Terre 641 Vallejo St. (415) 402-0895 They call it Fettuccine Cinque Terre on the menu – shellfish with ribbons of squid ink and white fettuccine in a spicy shrimp sauce – and it’s the best I’ve had in the Northside. Spinach gnocchi with shiitake mushrooms and Gorgonzola sauce at Amarena 2162 Larkin St. (415) 447-0441 The chef makes these plump, light-as-air spinach and potato dumplings fresh daily and serves them in a rich Gorgonzola sauce topped with shiitake mushrooms that makes them positively addicting. Fettuccine bolognese at Steps of Rome Trattoria 362 Columbus Ave. (415) 986-6480 Hunks of lean freshly ground beef in a light tomato sauce that isn’t too sour or too sweet. The secret? Carrots. The natural sugar strikes the perfect balance between sweet and sour in the sauce. I suggest substituting tagliarini for the fettuccine – the thinner pasta allows the essence of the meat sauce to stand at attention on your taste buds. Giggly travel maven Rachael Ray recently stopped by to film an episode of her latest show, Rachael Ray’s Tasty Travels, set to air on the Food Network September 23. BEST THAI Lemongrass 2348 Polk St. (415) 346-1818 Her restaurant is packed day and night, her salads sell out at the Real Foods deli and she has a line of sauces coming out soon, but chef/owner Toi Sawatdee still starts her morning the same way she has for over 10 years. Rising before the sun, she heads off to the markets to gather fresh vegetables, fruits, meats, and seafood to use for that day’s lunch and dinner menu. Sawatdee, a graceful, strong woman originally from Thailand, is adamant that this commitment to freshness is what sets Lemongrass apart from the myriad of other Thai restaurants in San Francisco. I definitely agree, but I think there’s another element that’s equally important: Sawatdee is a masterful chef, and her menu reflects a wide array of traditional items as well as creative signature dishes. She’s not afraid to work either – she usually gets just a few hours of sleep between dinner service and the morning market. As hectic as life is for Sawatdee there’s still a sense of serenity about her and about Lemongrass, which she attributes to having the restaurant blessed several times a year by Buddhist monks. BEST CHINESE Classic: Utopia Café 139 Waverly Pl. (415) 956-2902 Critical accolades aren’t new to Utopia Café, but still the unassuming restaurant tucked away in a little alley remains one of the Northside’s best kept secrets, catering mostly to Chinatown residents who come for the home-cooked Hong Kong-style cuisine. They specialize in clay pots, but I’ve never met a dish at Utopia I didn’t like. Not-to-miss-dishes include deep fried small fish, sweet and sour pork, deep fried bean cake and Hong Kong style beef chow fun. You can also order an omakase meal (chef’s choice) for 10 people for around $15 per person. Utopia uses only fresh seasonal ingredients, further setting it apart from the many tourist traps in Chinatown. With a linen napkin: Eliza’s 2877 California St. (415) 621-4819 Eliza’s updates Hunan and Mandarin cuisine with a California twist but manages not to lose any of the hot, sweet or pungent flavors. Standards like kung pao chicken and Mongolian beef share billing with mango ostrich, Hunan lamb, and salmon with asparagus. The ambiance matches the food with dramatic vases of freshly cut flowers, giant decorative gourds impressionist-style paintings. The bar is a piece of artwork in itself – a meandering slab of clear Plexiglas featuring a three-dimensional blown-glass underwater world where cartoonish koi fish appear to be swimmng through feathery purple and green kelp and bluish bubbles. With 32 lunch specials mostly under $5, Eliza’s also proves that you don’t have to drive up prices for a sleek interior and delicious high quality food. Dim Sum (classic): Dol Ho 808 Pacific Ave. (415) 392-2828 You’ll likely not hear a word of English spoken by staff or patrons, but as long as you can select things from a cart without needing much explanation, you’ll be rewarded with good, dirt-cheap dim sum. The stark interior, painted in hospital white and salmony pink with cheap crystal chandeliers hanging from the ceiling, is a bit depressing, but the lively crowd munching steamy har gau and shu mai helps add some color. It’s no Yank Sing but the traditional dumplings are fresh and tasty, and two of us stuffed ourselves for under $20, including tip and sodas. If you’re in a hurry, the counter also offers dim sum to go. Too little of a good thing: Jai Yun 923 Pacific Ave. (415) 981-7438 Chef Nei’ Chia Ji earned an underground reputation as the Thomas Keller of Shanghai cuisine with his chef’s choice prix fixe menu that ranges between $35 and $155 per person, but it seems, perhaps, that the adulation has gone to the chef’s head. We chose the $55 option and received essentially a 15-course amuse bouche that included tiny mounds of cucumber salad, gluten chicken that looked and tasted like cardboard, a couple of mystery meat courses, and a few seafood selections of which only one – abalone with egg whites – was memorable. Some of the dishes were good, but the high price tag left a sour taste in our mouths. Jai Yun means “home,” but it should mean “thick wallet” because that’s what you’ll need if you eat here. And it better be thick with cash because they don’t take credit cards. Best taco: Nick’s Crispy Tacos, carnitas taco “Nick’s Way” 1500 Broadway St. (415) 409-8226 Nick Fasanella isn’t your typical taqueria owner – he grew up in New England and graduated from the prestigious Culinary Institute of America, then wound up a personal chef on a private yacht. Frequent trips to South America and Mexico introduced him to the flavors of Latin street food and he became so enamored with them that he decided to open his own Mexican restaurant. Nick’s Crispy Tacos occupies Harry Denton’s Rouge nightclub during the day (at night he folds up shop like a traveling carnival to make room for the hipsters to come in from the cold) and he’s developed a large following of rabid regulars. Make sure to order the carnitas taco “Nick’s Way,” – braised shredded pork with pico de gallo and pinto beans in a hard shell tucked into a soft tortilla with guacamole and Jack cheese. It’s quite possibly the best taco in town. Best almost guilt-free burrito: La Canasta 3006 Buchanan St. (415) 921-3003 I love refried beans, but I don’t love the lard. At La Canasta you can have your refried beans – sort of – without the guilt. La Canasta makes “smashed” pinto beans that cook down over a long period of time until they have the same smooth consistency as their unhealthy counterparts. Try the carne asada “fajita” burrito – slices of lean marinated steak that are tossed on the open flame grill right when you place your order. The “super” includes guacamole and salsa made from scratch, low-fat sour cream, and cheese. Most romantic: Forbes Island Afloat between Piers 39 and 41 (415) 951-4900 Forbes Island is a 700-ton engine-propelled island, built by Mr. Forbes Thor Kiddoo as a floating home in 1975, and complete with 40 tons of earth, 100 tons of sand, and a 40-foot lighthouse that is the only such lighthouse in the world. A shuttle boat whisks you past the sea lions and into another world – a dining room with stained glass portholes above sea level and clear portholes below, lit up with 1,000 watts so you can see the fish and the occasional sea lion swimming by to check out the diners. The room is filled with nautifacts, statuettes, and silver candelabras, and a brass chandelier gently sways to the rhythm of the sea while a fireplace throws off a soft, romantic glow. In a tiny kitchen that rocks, the chef manages to turn out delicious dishes like Dungeness crab and lamb’s milk ricotta ravioli and a mean roasted rack of lamb. How can you beat eating great food under water? Plus, your date can’t escape. Best place to see and be seen: North Beach Restaurant 1512 Stockton St. (415) 392-1700 Director Edward Burns and supermodel Christy Turlington had their rehearsal dinner in the Prosciutto Room – from politicos to pro athletes, they’re all regulars in Lorenzo Petroni’s house. In just one evening, DA Kamala Harris and Supervisor Aaron Peskin, Da Mayor Willie Brown, Dusty Baker and several of the 49ers were dining a few tables away. In fact, Petroni remembers a rambunctious little boy running around the restaurant tipping over wine buckets while dining with his parents, who were regulars. That little boy grew up, but he’s still a regular – his name is Gavin Newsom. Power plays or not, no one would come back if the food wasn’t good, but Petroni’s partner and chef, Bruno Orsi, has been preparing authentic Tuscan cuisine at North Beach Restaurant since 1970. BEST NIGHTLY SPECIALS Monday: Fried chicken at Washington Square Bar & Grill 1707 Powell St. (415) 982-8123 Executive Chef Matt Reilly, who cooked in Louisiana prior to his post at the Washbag, does the only version of “soft crust,” a Southern-fried style that entails frying the chicken golden brown, letting it rest, and finishing it in the oven to partially crisp the crust. I love soft crust chicken, but the oven finish adds an extra step, so you don’t see it in restaurants often. Tuesday: Sydney’s half-price wine by the bottle 415 Presidio Ave. (415) 409-0400 Sydney’s has a very nice wine list, and now you can afford to work your way through it on Tuesday nights when bottles are half price (excluding the pricier cellar list). The food at Sydney’s is worth a visit, too, and the tasty buttermilk fried chicken salad will pair beautifully with that $14.50 bottle of St. Amant 2002 Viognier. Wednesday: Chicken potpie at Washington Square Bar & Grill 1707 Powell St. (415) 982-8123 The Washbag has specials seven nights a week, and the chicken potpie, like the fried chicken, is definitely worth a trip. Tender chunks of white meat and fresh vegetables in a creamy gravy hide beneath a golden, flaky crust that would make your grandmother proud. Thursday: Clambake for two at Yabbies Coastal Kitchen 2237 Polk St. (415) 474-4088 The friendly staff atYabbies serves the Thursday night clambake in a wire basket that looks like a golf ball container overflowing with jumbo shrimp, clams, mussels, red potatoes, and corn on the cob plus a one-and-a-half-pound lobster, big red claws dangling over the top. It’s pretty close to what you’d get back east (minus the sausage and steamers), but if you want to go San Francisco-style you can order it with Dungeness crab. Tip: If you order it with lobster, you get the crab, too. Friday: Cioppino at Caesar’s 2299 Powell St. (415) 989-6000 Cioppino is a San Francisco original, our version of the Italian fish stew known as cacciuco with clams, mussels, jumbo shrimp, and fresh fish in a hearty marinara sauce. It’s usually served with garlic toast, but we add our native Dungeness crab. But most cioppinos these days have a lot of white fish and mussels and you have to dig deep into that messy sauce to come up with a piece of crab. Not at Caesar’s – it’s a whole Dungeness crab accompanied by a few clams, mussels, and large shrimp, and Italian bread at the bottom of the bowl to soak up the thick, tangy tomato broth. Don’t dig for the white fish, however, because you won’t find any. The good news – the Friday cioppino night was so popular that Caesar’s now serves it Tuesday through Friday nights. Saturday: Lobster Madness at Perry’s 1944 Union St. (415) 922-9022 Lobster, lobster, and more lobster – Perry’s has been doing Lobster Madness for years, but it’s still a bit of a neighborhood secret. You get a one-and-a-quarter pound steamed Maine lobster with traditional fixings for $18.95. Tip: Perry’s serves lobster dinners from 5 p.m. “until they’re gone” and they go quick, so when you call for a reservation ask the hostess to reserve a lobster for you, too. Sunday: Fried chicken at Street 2141 Polk St. (415) 775-1055 That’s right, in my perfect world we start the week and end the week with fried chicken! Street’s version narrowly missed making my list in July’s Fried Chicken Frenzy, but I know people who swear by it. Let’s face it, you just can’t go wrong with serious comfort food like this on a blustery Sunday night.

Last Updated ( Saturday, 12 January 2008 )