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The Inquisitive Traveler
The Florida Keys: Full of sun, surf and seafood
By Patty Burness
Photos Patty Burness

In August when San Franciscans dream about sunshine and warm weather, they should turn southeast — to the Florida Keys. There are more than 1,000 islands strung out over 127 miles. They’re a great place to beach comb, sport fish, dive, eat the most delectable seafood, and recharge. Festivals abound year round.
           
Key West is the southernmost city in the chain and where my recent journey with friends began. The Conch Republic, as it’s affectionately known locally, is only two by four miles. The laid-back vibe and bohemian lifestyle make it easy to fit right in.
           
We checked into the Cypress House, built in 1888 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The architecture is classic for the area — wooden houses, tin roofs and wonderful porches. Spacious rooms feature high ceilings and ceiling fans. Happy hour poolside is a nightly occurrence.
           
On a local tip, we headed to the Hogfish Bar & Grill for dinner, right next to where fishing boats tie up. Named for the local fish caught nearby, this gem in the Lower Keys is a seafood lover’s delight. Hogfish is light and delicate, which the restaurant serves grilled with blackened scallops. After conch fritters, coconut shrimp and a margarita, we relished the warm breezes and lively “Keys” music.
           
The next morning, we nibbled at the Cypress House buffet and then hit the streets. It’s a quick walk to most places in Old Town. Just around the corner is Nancy’s Secret Garden, an oasis of flora and tropical birds. We had to visit Kermit’s Key Lime Pie Shop (key lime pie is Florida’s official pie). At Kermit’s you can taste everything imaginable made from key lime — pies, sauces, jams, frozen goodies — and Kermit himself is a treat.
           
Blue Heaven, a local favorite with outdoor eating, music and roosters roaming the sandy grounds, is renowned for breakfast. We savored a lobster omelet, house-made banana bread and tried a Goombay Smash (coconut and pineapple rums with fresh orange juice and ginger ale).


Colorful butterfly at the Butterfly
and Nature Conservatory

  

         
Time for more walking. The afternoon was spent at the Hemingway House and the Butterfly and Nature Conservatory. They’re both unique treasures, but the hundreds of butterflies and exotic colorful birds at the conservatory are truly special.
           
Sunset means party time in Key West. Choose either the public party at Mallory Square or the more subdued Louie’s Backyard; both boast stunning ocean views. Pineapple-infused vodka, fresh-squeezed lime with a splash of cranberry make the Island Cosmo idyllic for imbibing at Louie’s.
           
The following day, we left the Lower Keys on the Overseas Highway. The road is surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean and Gulf of Mexico and stretches from Key West in the south to Key Largo in the north. Everywhere, the sun’s rays danced on turquoise waters.
           


Luscious lobster at the
Marathon Seafood Festival

We pulled off at Marathon, a boating and fishing town in the Middle Keys known for its annual seafood festival, which raises money for community charities. We met up with local fishermen and over 7,500 revelers (one day’s attendance) and sampled Florida lobster, stone crab claws and conch chowder while listening to musicians jam under the warm sun.
           
Just down the road at Crane Point Museum and Nature Center, you can learn about the Keys. A network of trails across the 63-acre property let you discover hammock trees, exotic creatures and stunning views.
           

View from the Coral Lagoon Resort and Marina

Next up: Coral Lagoon Resort and Marina, a waterfront resort on beautifully landscaped grounds (pool included). Our spacious three-bedroom, two-story townhouse was light and airy with French doors opening to expansive porches overlooking the lagoon. From rocking chairs on both levels, we watched boats tie up in front. A great room for lounging, a full kitchen and plenty of flat screen TVs (if you need them) make this villa a natural vacation rental.
           
Kaiyó Restaurant is an artsy Florida-infused Asian favorite. The walls showcase glass mosaics, and the unusual dishes are served on tableware created by a nearby potter. The food? Start with tempura conch bites with wasabi dipping sauce. Go for the red dragon roll (tempura shrimp, cucumber and avocado topped with tuna tataki). An assortment of sashimi, the grilled yellowfin tuna steak, and sake left us happy and sated.
           


Go fishing at Robbie’s

In the morning, we grabbed coffee at Leigh Ann’s, a charming restaurant/store that offers house-made specials and gourmet foods. Then it was off to Islamorada, the sport fishing capital of the world in the Upper Keys. At Robbie’s, we went out for a half day of fishing. My friend caught a porgy and a grunt (big enough to keep), but I wasn’t so lucky. On a good day, you’ll catch yellowtail, snapper, marlin, tuna, groupers, and more.
           
Back onshore, the Hungry Tarpon restaurant will prepare your catch. We ordered one fish grilled and the other blackened — it doesn’t get any fresher than that.


Relax at the Siesta Resort and Marina




Sunset in the Keys


           
Nearby, we found the Siesta Resort and Marina, individual bungalows and low-rise buildings nestled on the beach. From my ample third-floor room, I had nonstop views and a deck for lounging. Several restful hours later, as the sun melted in the orange-pink sky, we set out for The Fish House Encore, popular for over two decades. We each chose the yellowtail snapper grilled three ways and loved the flavors and textures. For dessert we couldn’t resist key lime pie — light, tangy and topped with a soft meringue.
           
On the way to Miami the next day, we detoured to South Beach for a final seafood fix. At the happening News Cafe, we tasted the best conch fritters ever — light and crispy.
           
The Florida Keys are laid back and perfect for maximum enjoyment. The surroundings are beautiful, the seafood luscious, and the residents share their enthusiasm for their way of living. It’s a trip worth taking.



Essentials

Getting There
The Florida Keys: Fly San Francisco to Miami then to Key West. www.expedia.com/gogreen; www.eco.orbitz.com. Tourist Information: www.fl-keys.com.

Where to Stay
Cypress House: 601 Caroline Street, Key West, 800-525-2488, www.cypresshousekw.com. Rooms from $145.
           
Coral Lagoon Resort and Marina:
12399 Overseas Highway, Marathon, 866-904-1234, www.corallagoonresort.com. Villas from $212.
           
La Siesta Resort and Marina:
80241 Overseas Highway, Islamorada, 877-278-0368, www.lasiestaresort.com. Rooms from $162.

Where to Eat
Hogfish Bar and Grill: 6810 Front Street, Stock Island, 305-293-4041, www.hogfishbar.com. Appetizers from $7.95, dinner specialties from $15.95, frozen drinks from $6.50.
           
Blue Heaven:
729 Thomas Street, Key West, 305-296-8666, www.blueheavenkw.com. Lobster omelet $20, banana bread (with fruit) $11, drinks $8.

Louie’s Backyard:
700 Waddell Avenue, Key West, 305-294-1061, www.louiesbackyard.com. Cocktails from $9.
           
Kaiyó:
81701 Old Highway, Islamorada, 305-664-5556, www.kaiyokeys.com. Starters from $4.50, sushi bar specials from $15, entrees from $19, sake from $12/bottle.
           
Leigh Ann’s Coffee House:
7537 Overseas Highway, Marathon, 305-743-2001, www.leighannscoffeehouse.com. Coffee from $2.
           
Hungry Tarpon:
Mile Marker 77.5 Bayside, Islamorada, 305-664-0535, www.hungrytarpon.com. Cook your catch $12.
           
The Fish House Encore,
102341 Overseas Highway, Key Largo, 305-451-0650, www.fishhouse.com. Fresh fish main players from $22, grand finale desserts from $5.
           
News Cafe:
800 Ocean Drive, Miami Beach, 305-538-6397, www.newscafe.com.
Appetizers from $9.



Don’t Miss


Key West
           
Nancy Forrester’s Secret Garden:
1 Free School Lane, 305-294-0015, www.nfsgarden.com.
           
Kermit’s Key West Key Lime Shoppe:
 200A Elizabeth Street, 800-376-0806, www.keylimeshop.com.
           
Ernest Hemingway House and Museum:
907 Whitehead Street, 305-294-1136, www.hemingwayhome.com.
           
Key West Butterfly and Nature Conservatory:
1316 Duval Street, 305-296-2988, www.keywestbutterfly.com.
Marathon
           
Crane Point Museum and Nature Center:
5550 Overseas Highway, 305-743-9100, www.cranepoint.net.

Islamorada

Robbie’s of Islamorada: Mile Marker 77.5, 877-664-8498, 305-664-8498, www.robbies.com. Fishing half day: $35/person, full day: $60/person.

Must Try
American Airlines Admirals Club Lounge:When you need a respite from travel, try the club. From day passes to annual memberships, enjoy wireless access, comfortable seating, beverages, and snacks; for prices and locations: www.aa.com

Samsonite Checkmate-Checkpoint Friendly Laptop Case: 800-675-3451, www.luggage.com. With a padded laptop compartment, lots of pockets and sturdy construction, you’ll have everything you need to be a road warrior. $56.99.

Patty Burness is the travel writer for Northside San Francisco. Her e-mail is patty@northsidesf.com


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